Hydroponics-Six Important Nutrients-Nitrogen

Hydroponics-Six Important Nutrients-Nitrogen

Hydroponics-Six Important Nutrients-Nitrogen

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Hydroponics-Six Important Nutrients-Nitrogen

So also known as “nitrate” because this is the form of Nitrogen that your precious plants use. Of course Nitrogen is responsible for the strong growth of the plants leaves. Importantly, it is also the reason that the leaves are green coloured. This green colouring helps with the process of Chlorophyll production.

Of course there are thousands of different types of fertilizer products to choose from! However there are two basic types of nitrogen fertilizers that we use in horticulture.

 1-Is a quick release product (Urea) 

2- Is a slow release product (methylene Urea) 

A great example of this is the quick release fertilizer used by turf growers for the making of lawns. Green lawns make a good looking lawn and the growers will use a quick release product. Naturally the fast release range of fertilizers will make the availability of nitrogen instant!

However the addition of this quick release fertilizer is only short lived. This product can easily be washed away in a heavy rainy period. On the other hand it can also burn the lawn turf if used in unregulated amounts. This is my problem, I always throw in that extra handful on to my lawn. It pays to give the recommended dose of granules and don’t overdo things. of course, I am now talking gardening in general! Hydroponics have a very set of rules governing the amounts of nutrients to be used.

So, too much a dose can make your grass grow too quick and leggy. Of course for safety it may be best to use a slow release product. This will ensure the best take up rate for your plants. Also by using the slow release then the danger of burning and speedy growth will be slower and less dramatic. So, giving a better growth experience for your plants or lawn. So this now leads me to the second of our three important nutrients phosphate.   

Of course this is also very important in hydroponics growing systems.

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Growing Food-First time Hydroponics Tomato Growing

Growing Food-First time Hydroponics Tomato Growing

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Growing Food-First time Hydroponics Tomato Growing

So , I am starting off my growing experience by experimentation! In other words I am going to start at the beginning by setting up my own hydroponics planting systems from the very basic ideas available.

Of course in the past couple of years I have made a start by creating a set up for a different way of growing some tomato plants. Of course I also used the traditional growbag method ! Just to compare the results if this was going to be possible. Tomatoes are always a favourite fruit to grow. Because the are fairly easy for a beginner to try and the final product, (large juicy tomatoes) are always a popular gift to any visitors to your garden. Including of course your friends and family.

Equipment from Leeds Hydrostore

Simply because my daughters husband works their then I decided to take his advice and tell me what equipment I should be needing to set up my tomato growing system. When I visited the well equipped store then I was unclear to the things that I would require. First thing was to be somewhere to store the water! So I chose the large 400 litre Flexi-Tank . I found this very easy to erect and it slotted into the corner of my 12ft x 10ft greenhouse perfectly.

The next piece of equipment was to be an “auto-pot system” . This was to be connected up to the water tank to supply my plants with water and nutrients. Although I found the connecting up of the various small pipes and plastic connections a little fiddly, but finally it was then complete.

Once in place it was ready for planting up. I was going to use “Canadian Xpress Hydro Grow” for the first time. The growing medium comes in two parts A and B. However I found the instructions easy to follow and added it to the now full water tank. Believe it or not this was going to enable me and the wife to have a few days holiday, without worrying about the tomato plants getting stressed out dur to lack of watering .

So, the plant medium that I chose was to be a mixture of “clay balls” and “Coco natural Coir“. These were supplied in 50 litre bags and easy to handle. So, after the set up was all ready then I planted my young tomato plants and sat back to see what would happen. Consequently, having never done this method of growing anything before before!

Growbags at the same time

So, at the same time them I planted out ten growbags using this traditional method and watering by hand. I must say the hydroponics method truly produced the best results. I was amazed at the amount of water and nutrients that the plants would use to grow properly. My tomato trusses went right up to the greenhouse roof producing truss after truss of excellent quality tomatoes.

This was in the end to be the far better method of growing and I will not be using growbags any more. The results of the hydroponics method were tremendous. So, we had fresh grown tomatoes right in to the autumn and I cant wait for the new season to begin again.

Plant Pests-Whitefly

Plant Pests-Whitefly

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Plant Pests-Whitefly

So these little past are the pests that haunts most plant growers, including myself. Of course whitefly come in many different variants. It is estimated that there are about 1500 different species of these little garden horrors.

However one variety is known as the glasshouse whitefly. This garden pest is a sap-sucking pest that attacks your plants. So, at the same time they give off a sticky substance better known as “honeydew” . This honeydew can be seen all over the infestation. Adult whitefly and the nymphs excrete this sticky honeydew on the foliage, which allows the growth of black sooty moulds. This black sooty mould can become a real problem making the plants look totally un-healthy. Ultimately, the leaves, fruit and stems are all targets for these little monsters.

Last year was a particular bad year for whitefly. These little garden enemies thrive in hot summers. Last year was a good year for growers of all types of plants! However I had a particular bad attack of whitefly. Especially on my pepper plants. My peppers were very bushy. So, the first whitefly outbreak was missed . Causing me a much bigger problem and not really catching up with problem. Eventually I had to attack them by removing my peppers outdoors. This gave me the room to attack the whiteflies from every angle. next year I will keep a closer eye on things.

Controls

So one of the favoured “biological” methods is to introduce the tiny parasitoid wasps, Encarsia formosa. Importantly, these enemies of the whitefly must be introduced in the first instance. Giving the wasps time to devour the whitefly nymphs emerging pests. After a successful attack of the nymphs by the parasitic wasps then the results will let you see the nymphs turning black. This turning black will help you monitor the situation of how the wasps are doing.

Importantly, the grower must be careful not to use an insecticide at the same time as introducing the parasitic wasps. Another point is not to use the yellow stick cards when introducing the wasps. Of course, the wasps will also land on the sticky cards. As a general rule then the following precautions will be a great help when battling against these little pests.

As I recommend for most flying insects then the sticky yellow cards must be used. There are other types of sticky cards and all are most useful. These cards help the grower to spot any type of insects at an early stage. After the pests are spotted then the attack against them can be mounted.

Newly introduced plants should be quarantined first before placing the plants in there final growing space. This gives time to allow any whitefly eggs or nymphs to develop and spotted so that action can be taken.

Watch for weeds

Growers should be aware that these insects will also thrive on weed. So good greenhouse housekeeping is imperative. Not allowing weeds to grow will eradicate this from happening.

Sooty moulds that develop in the later stages of a whitefly attack, thrive best in hot and humid environment! So good ventilation is very important.

Finally, good hygiene and cleaning your growing environment including the greenhouse should be carried out every winter. This should include using an “insect fumer” . Another product worth considering is the “Hot shots” vapour pads. These products give off an insecticide vapour that penetrates all the area where the growing takes place.

Plant Pests-Fungus Gnats

Plant Pests-Fungus Gnats

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Plant Pests-Fungus Gnats

So one good thing about “Fungus Gnats” is that the adults are visible to the naked eye. I must confess that I am not familiar with these little pests and so m on a learning kerb myself. Perhaps one of the reasons why is because the larvae actually feed on the plants roots including the feeder roots. Of course damage to these feeder roots causes slower growth of the effected plants.

Consequently, this opens up the way for the plants to be effected by bacterial infections. Adult gnats can over winter in cold weather. many other insect pests are destroyed by the old of winter but not these little guys.

Over watering could be problem

So the fungus gnats will invariably feed on plants that have the beginning of root rot. Often caused by the plant grower over watering. The gnats can often be found living in over saturated soil. However , a good watering regime would be the answer. In my experience then beginner gardeners will often over water their plants ! Thinking that more water is better than none. However, this is not so a like most things then practice and disappointments due to dying plants will all come with practice and tolerance.

My advice is always to use sticky yellow pads

Like most things insects the adult gnats will be flying around your greenhouse/conservatory or growing room. Catching the adults as they are flying about will help the grower to identify pests. Including the adult fungus gnats. However fungus gnats can also be seen walking about on your plants as they are not very good flyers. In my opinion we should all use the yellow sticky pads where ever space is available. I use them all the time and its unbelievable what little monsters that you can catch and identify.

Once identified you can take evasive action to get rid of the pests.

Natural organic measures can be used including the addition of parasitic nematodes Steinernema feltiae. Of course, these naturally occurring parasites which are soil born will naturally infect the fungus gnats larvae with bacteria and fortunately, kill them.

IMPORTANTLY, DON’T WAIT UNTIL YOU SEE ADULT FLIES

So like many things in life then “prevention is better than a cure”! here at Hydrostore we can offer any grower a preventative online. The product that we recommend is “Nilnat” . Commercial growers use this products before the crops are infected. Also you can use this if you spot the small black adult walking about close to your growing medium or on the yellow sticky cards.

Plant Pests-Red Spider Mites

Plant Pests-Red Spider Mites

Plant Pests-Red Spider Mites

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Plant Pests-Red Spider Mites

So spider mite always come as a shock when spotted. Including a greater shock to new gardeners. Growers of indoor plants are most likely to come across these little monsters. They often cause damage before they are spotted. When look at under a microscope like the above image they truly look formidable creatures. I liken them to some types of aliens from a distant planet.

The plant cells are damaged by these little monsters. Their mouthparts will stick into the plant cell structure and then drain the cells content. Damage caused looks like tiny little speckles on your plant leaves. The leaves are marked yellow and white and very noticeable. So, the leaves will eventually turn a bronze colour and eventually fall off causing the grower much concern.

If infestations are not tackled then your plants will often be covered with horrible looking webs. Eventually, the attack will defoliate the plant and kill it.

Difficult to treat red spider mite

Unfortunately, red spider mite are extremely difficult to spot in the first instance. So, even with us older gardeners, these little red devils are difficult to spot in the first instance. Naturally this gives the mites a little time to establish themselves. So, spreading amongst nearby plants without being spotted.

Secondly, these pests tend to graze beneath the leaves of the plant, keeping hidden away. This has two actions! Firstly, they are difficult to spray under the leaves! Secondly, they are also difficult to find by their natural predators.

Spider mites are fast breeders. Importantly, a new generation can be born every five days in the right conditions. In general the life span of these little pests is about a month. Within this month the females can lay hundreds of eggs each.

Plant Pests-Red Spider Mites

Just like the aphids then the ladybird and the lace wings are probably the best natural way of trying to control the red spider mites. Soap sprays are also a good way of controlling these insects. Spider mites will start a new infestation when the temperature rises in the spring. Temperatures of 25C usually bring them out of winter hibernation. Growers that use artificial lighting to grow all year round are more likely to get attacks and must be vigilant at all times.

Other methods of control include the introduction of predatory mites. Known as “Amblyseius Andersoni” . This variety of mite feeds on pollen and some other species of mite. Slow breeder sachets are available which slowly release the good mites over a three to four week period.

Finally a natural product is also available known as SMC natural control. This works by a physical means blocking the breathing holes of the red mites and insects causing death by suffocation. Incidentally, any spider mite eggs are unlikely to hatch due to their encapsulation within the medium and their obvious inability to transpire successfully into an adult spider mite.

Plant Pests-Starting With Aphids

Plant Pests-Starting With Aphids

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Plant Pests-Starting With Aphids

There is no doubt about it that whatever and wherever you grow your plants then sooner or later you will be confronted by these little pasty guys! The dreaded aphids. In fact I have just sprayed some early clusters appearing on my greenhouse on the citrus trees. So, this prompted me to start a series of blog posts about pests and some of the best ways to control them.

What are Aphids ?

Well these little guys are small insects of differing colours. They can be seen in green (the popular I think) grey, black, red, yellow and a few other colour. The bodies are mainly pear shaped and they hang out in clusters of differing sizes depending on how long they are aloud to live. Of course its always a bit disheartening when you spot your fist Aphid outbreak! Especially when you are new to growing plants.

These little horrors can be found on most type of plant both in doors and outside. I our part of the world here in West Yorkshire the aphids are generally know by there colour. So, the green ones are known as “green flies” and the black and grey ones as “black flies”. Importantly though they are all aphids and require controlling in the same way.

So, usually the first sign of an outbreak will be spotted on “new growth leaves”. Aphids will live on the underside of new leaves and suck at the juices of the plant. Both indoor and outdoor plants can be affected, so a close watch should be a part of your plants maintenance. At first the aphids dont seam to have much affect on your young plant leaves. However a bad infestation will lead to the plant leaves dropping off, usually turning yellow first.

Aphids can spread diseases

Aphids can be a huge problem on certain crops. Of course we have all seen the shiny sticky substance they the give off. This is known as “Honeydew”. This sweet excretion is a food of other insects such as ants. Ants will often farm the aphids for their honeydew Thus perhaps causing other problems for the discerning gardener. So, another problem that can manifest itself is that the honeydew is also a food source for moulds. These moulds can often be seen on plants that have not been treated for the aphid infestation. They look unsightly and should be treated as soo as possible. All these things should be part of the plant growers hygiene practises and not neglected. Once you spot aphids then action must be taken ASAP.

Aphids give live birth

Of course this is why these little pests can multiply so quickly. Female aphids give birth to live young. So, as soon they are born then the young aphids are able to start the assault on your plants. After four moulting’s of a white coloured skin then these little guys can start producing more offspring’s. Fundamentally, increasing the size of the infestation with an aphid population explosion. This is why early vigilance and intervention is required by the plant grower, indoors or outdoors. If you see an early outbreak then attack it.

So, the young aphids are known as “nymphs”. This is common in the insect world. The nymphs look very much like the adult insects and can cause the same amount of plant damage accordingly. Aphids can easily spread their colonies to other parts of the plant or garden. This is done by some of the adults having wings. These adults emerge when the local colony is getting too large to sustain.

Aphids natural predators

Like most of the world of natural history then there are natural balances to help eradicate these aphid pests and the powdery mildew that follows. . Of course the most people know of the most popular aphid eater , the “ladybird) or “ladybug ” as it is called in the USA. These predators are a member of the beetles family. In my opinion then the ladybird is a common and welcome site to the regular outdoor gardener. These bright coloured flying beetles are a welcome site and come in any forms and colours. The most common been bright red with black spots.

Ladybirds arrive on this planet in four stages, Firstly the eggs are laid on wild plants such as nettles. The eggs hatch into a larva and quickly develop into the pups and then the adult ladybird emerges into the bright red and yellow dotted beetle that we all recognise. Clusters of up to forty eggs can be seen on the leaves of nettles and other wild plants. Consequently these eggs hatch in about four to ten days.

Ladybirds can be seen hibernating around garden sheds and even in houses. Emerging in spring and soon starting their life cycle over again. These beetle are rampant feeders of aphids and can eat as many as 5,000 aphids in a year.

Here in the UK ladybirds are available to buy. Adults or larvae are available between the months of April to August. Another good organic way of aphid control is from “Neem Oil” . This treatment is derived from the seeds of the tropical “Neem Tree” and can be used as an insecticide and other things such as, aphids, spidermites, mealybugs, and scale. It also controls diseases, such as powdery mildew. This is a beneficial product to have handy for your plants and is available from Hydrostore online.

How Deep Flow Technique (DFT) Hydroponic Systems Work |

How Deep Flow Technique (DFT)

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How Deep Flow Technique (DFT)

So, this excellent diagram shows exactly what a hydroponics system looks like. Of course this is the exact same method that I successfully grow my tomatoes and peppers in my Alton timber greenhouse. Importantly, we gardeners live busy lives! Also, many of us are all for high tech gadgets to help us through our busy working days. This in my opinion is where “hydroponics Stores” can help us.

Buying the equipment can be a bit expensive! However, there are many times when a family member asks you what you want for your birthday or perhaps a Christmas gift. So, I must confess that this is how I did it. My first purchase was for a “Water tank” and self watering system. Over the years I have always had problems with kind hearted relations promising to water your precious cucumber and tomato plants. Consequently, they are left right to the end of the week and then are drowned by your lazy or forgetful friend or relation.

As we all know this break in fluid flow can cause all sort of problems with your plants. However the purchase of the “plastic flexi water tank” and associated connections has solved this problem for me. So, before going off on holiday I just make sure my tanks is full with water and the correct amount of nutrients. My local Hydrastore gave mmw a great price with advice about the size of the plastic reservoir tank required.

The Deep Flow Technique (DFT) is similar to two other hydroponic systems, but it ultimately works in it’s own way. In this article, you’ll learn how DFT hydroponic systems grow crops.

Source: How Deep Flow Technique (DFT) Hydroponic Systems Work | AgriTechTomorrow

Hydroponics

Growing Flowers

Growing Flowers

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Growing Flowers

Growing Flower

Of course in the general run of things then most gardeners will grow vegetables under hydroponics conditions. However this is not always so. Especially when starting off when growing young plants. As can be seen flowers can be grown under strict conditions when using hydroponics. To start with a strict control can be used to measure the correct amount of light. In other words lighting can used to lengthen the amount of daylight. So, tricking the young plants about the time of year. Importantly, this can be seen when driving passed the large growers.

Glasshouses are lit to give the flowers a full days sun light. Of course this is the reason that we can buy out of season flowers such as roses. Not too long ago then roses could only be bought when in season (summer time). Now because of hydroponics and day light extending lighting systems then roses can be bought at any time of the year.

Nutrient controls

Of course the other big advantage with hydroponics is that plants including flowers can be grown with full control of nutrients. So growing without soils enables the flower plants to draw in nutrients into there roots. At the same time the young plants are not effected by pests such as weeds disease or insects.

Hydroponics can be used by large and small growers alike. As I have siad in the past then I started out with a self watering system. Consisting of a plastic reservoirs for the water and nutrients to be added. Also there are various systems for connecting up plastic piping to you growing pots. So, the video below gives a good example of what can be done using hydroponic systems to grow flowers.

Although I do grow my own flowers, so they are mainly used as companion plants. For example, I use French marigolds to deter white fly from my tomato plants.

Hydroponics

Growing Systems

Growing Systems

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Growing Systems

Growing Systems

Growing by using hydroponics is of course now becoming a very popular hobby. So, whether it be farming or the person that just wants to grow small plants at home using a simple hydroponics system and a small grow light. My interest is the later. Although I have a large garden then my main interest is in growing in my “Alton” timber glasshouse. Of course using hydroponics wherever possible.

I do admit that as an older person then hydroponics equipment is affordable. However once purchased the equipment can be used over and over again. Online hydroponics shops are now making equipment more affordable and within reach of many of our large towns and cities. Here in West Yorkshire “Hydrostore” keep an excellent range of hydroponic equipment an will shortly be extending their range to include normal garden tools and equipment! of course all included online.

Hydroponics are soil-less

Of course hydroponic systems are a water based growing system and is of course soil-less. Giving your plants water and nutrients that is controlled. So, my concern was always based on the fact that having a young family meant that I had to take them on holidays. Of course having to leave my garden and greenhouse with a reliable water source! Of course we all have friends and relations with good intentions! All willing to look after your beloved plants. However, most times have ended in disaster. Non gardeners dont understand your precious plants requirements. For instance many will just give the plants one good watering the day before your return from holiday. Thinking that they have done you a big favour. However we all know different. This problem was remedied by the addition to my greenhouse of an hydroponics water system. As long as you make sure that the reservoir is full to the brim then you can go on your holidays knowing that you plants will be watered when they require the water. So, for some strange reason then it is always hot and sunny when I go away on holiday!

Grow more plants

So the old method that I used to grow my tomatoes and peppers was in grow bags. I must confess that I still do like this method of growing. However it is the constant watering and feeding that can make it hard work. Miss a day on a hot day can cause the grower a huge problem. So, by using hydroponics then this problem will be eliminated! Accordingly all you must do is make sure that the reservoir tank is filled regularly.

Plants grown in hydroponic conditions do not need to spread their root systems to find and take in nutrients. Because of this we are able to fit the plants at closer spaces. So in my own particular case then I can fit in another four tomato or pepper plants.

Hydroponics

Air flow

Air Flow

Air Flow and its importance in Hydroponics

So, I must confess that “air flow” was a thing taken for granted amongst gardeners with glass houses or polytunnels. However, it is thought that airflow is even more important in the art of hydroponic growing. Of course the larger areas are more likely to self evacuate and move the oxygen(O2) after the plants have taken in the Co2 (carbon dioxide). Amateur growers would simply open the growing area vents and doors when required.

I myself have a modern greenhouse with automatic vents. These vents are opened according to the vents releasing and changing the air. Thus, creating a proper air flow and changing the gases to suit the plants. Of course this action naturally supplies your plants with the Co2 that they require.

When visiting the large growers then you cant help notice the giant electric fans that these huge glasshouses posses. The large fans not only heat the glasshouses to extend the growing season, but create the conditions to exchange the gases that are beneficial to the plants.

Fans and filters are important in hydroponics

Because of the size restrictions used when growing plants in homes and out building. Then it is imperative to combine your system with a good air flow system using filters and fans where possible. Fans and filters are available at any good hydroponics stores including our stores in West Yorkshire.

Exchanging the Air

Strangely enough what we know as “Air Exchange” is a bit like circulation. Except but not just so. Simply put then “Air exchange” (an open ventilation system) is a means of bringing air from the outside replacing the air on the inside. So, this could be known as circulation. The air circulation replaced and exchanges the different gases and even humidity and temperature will be affected.

As I said earlier like opening the ventilators on your greenhouse on a hot sunny day. Letting out the hot humid air. Replacing it with fresh cooler air from outside. Of course it is all about growing your plants in a controlled manner.

Plants require light and water to thrive

As many of us gardeners know! Then plants require light, water and breath mainly carbon dioxide to produce and store the energy. Combined these four components have the affect of enabling the plant to store the energy produced. Serving as the main building blocks for the plants to develop and indeed grow. Plants also release energy through respiration when it is required.

So, in their growing environment this can lead to an uneven balance of gases! Given off in the leaf and air area of their environment. Add together the affects of warmth and humidity given off by the suns energy or some other light source. Of course this is where the different systems of growing comes into play. The regular greenhouse/polytunnel scenario will be ventilated by circulation controlled by doors, windows and ventilators. large commercial growers will also incorporate giant fans into their operations.

For indoor growers using special growing units, a system of fans and ventilators must be used. So, to create the correct growing balances,.

ventilation helps control diseases

Most of us gardeners know the importance of good ventilation when it comes to disease control. A poorly ventilated growing room will result in too much moisture on the leaves. Attracting the spores from dreaded diseases such as “powdery mildew”. spores from Moulds and pathogens will thrive if given the right conditions including poor ventilation and humidity. Damp leaves are an open invitation to letting in these moulds and diseases.

Experienced growers, soon learn about the art of ventilation and its importance when growing in a hot climate or a hot sunny spell. Since my first ever greenhouse many years ago then ventilators were an optional extra. Bringing it up to 2018 when I bought my last greenhouse then it came with no fewer than 6 separate ventilators. How times have changed!