Grey Mould Problem

Hydrostore-Grey Mould Problem ?

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Grey Mould Problem

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Grey Mould Problem

Of course the first time that I can remember this problem was when I was rooting my first Chrysanthemum cuttings. Coincidently, it was also in my first greenhouse. Although still a teenager I rented my first allotment which was next door to my local park in Dewsbury ,West Yorkshire. So, I was always careful with my money and indeed had a paper round in the morning and also the evening.

Of course this enabled me to pay the yearly rent on my first allotment. The cuttings were given to me by a vey kind allotment holder who has now passed away. Mr Grimes was also the local council swimming instructor in the Dewsbury area. So, Mr grimes was the king of growing all sorts of things including dahlias and chrysanthemums. My first job was to clear the overgrown allotment area including my newly acquired and rather old greenhouse.

Ventilation became the problem

Grey Mould is technically known as ” Botrytis Cinerea” . Hence grey mould is a type of fungus and can spread very quickly if not spotted early. The mould is more rampant in humid and warm growing conditions. Going back to my youth! Mr grimes kindly gave me a selection of chrysanthemum cuttings to try and root myself. So, the last user of the greenhouse had left some good and useful things including seed boxes and smaller things such as plant labels.

This was all to become useful as money was not available form my parents in those days ! Everything had to be earned. Hence my two paper rounds. After looking up “rooting cuttings” in my old and tattered gardening book. Then I filled two wooden boxes with peat and placed in the prepared cuttings using a good quality peat. This was the main medium that all gardeners used in those days. Most growers now use “Coco” as a growing medium, due to environmental considerations.

However I digress! So my greenhouse was not heated, (because I could not afford) . Consequently, the days were warm and the nights cooler. Unfortunately for me this encouraged the growth of grey mould on my newly acquired cuttings. Eventually, I lost the lot, but this was a lesson learned!

Ventilation was the lesson learned. This old greenhouse had a window that opened but could not now be used because of age. Modern plant growers have a wealth of equipment to stop grey mould from attacking your valuable plants. Whether indoors or in a greenhouse then good ventilation is a must. “Prevention is better than a cure”. Here at Hydrostore we sell a large selection of fans and ventilation extractor fan systems.

Good ventilation the best practice

So, lights and heaters can cause the humidity that grey mould thrives on! My latest greenhouse (fifty years later) has many top openings and side vent systems. Even so I will have an electric fan in place for high temperatures or thundery clammy weather. When growing using hydroponics systems there is a good amount of water involved. So once again good ventilation is a must. In humid conditions the grey mould can spread very quickly.

The mould can also hide on non-growing items just ready to spread into your valuable flowers and fruit. Good cleanliness in the growing area is also a must. As I have mentioned, fans and dehumidifiers are available from you nearest “Hydrostore” here in West Yorkshire.

rrey mould thrives on environments that are to humid and quickly spread from plant to plant and often to non plant items to, its especially common in the very early stages or the d flowering stages if the humidity is to high and you have a lot of dense flowers and fruits that the old loves to hide in. A great product that can be used is “canna cannazym“. Please read the instructions carefully for the best results.

Just as a footnote then grey mould is common on grapes and can be clearly seen on the attached image.

Hydroponics from the Start

Hydroponics from the Start-Beginning with growing lettuce.

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Hydroponics from the Start

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Hydroponics from the Start

Hi as an older gardener then I have to give some thought into starting off with hydroponics. So, its hard to get into my head that you dont need soil or indeed a garden to grow things. My first hydroponics venture came with growing tomatoes. However this was done by using “clay pebbles” and a Canna Coco Natural. Of course this is a well known grow media. A replacement for growing in peat moss and made from pure coco fibre. As a result I now use this product for all my plant growing needs. The product ensures a perfect air and water retention ratio. It’s is made by Canna from its high-performance grow media range. Ensuring rich root growth and accelerated plant development.

However, I am now going to try to use pure hydroponics to grow my first lettuce plants. So, my first thought was that I could control the actual lettuce plants that I need. I dont know about you but previously I am a victim of over growing my salad crops. Consequently I will feel more positive about only growing the amount of salad crops that will be required. I can plant out as many lettuces that I will need to last me a few weeks and then replant a second tray. Of course if it is required.

Herbs can also be a good crop to grow.

This method also looks good when growing certain herbs as well as different lettuce types. However I want to cover this in a separate blog post! lettuces grown in a plastic tray and a polystyrene sheet cut out to fit the young lettuce plants in side a mesh pot with a lip so that it fits into the hole perfectly. So the tray is then filled with water up to the root system of your lettuce plants.

Importantly, the you will have to add nutrients to the water to feed the fast developing plants. My local hydroponics store has recommended that I try “CX Hydro-base” mixing part A and part B to the correct quantities. of course I will be trying this in the second week of March in my slightly heated greenhouse. Light should be no problem! Of course you can also use some sort of solar lights for indoors growing.

Also I believe that I should also use a small air pump for oxygenating the you plants. I have seen in tests that this vastly improves the plants growing capabilities. Consequently, this is an extra expense but the pump can be used over and over again.

Asa visual person myself I have decides to add a good video about the early learning days for growing with this hydroponics method, please enjoy!

Hydrostore-Potassium

Hydrostore-Potassium

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Hydrostore-Potassium

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Hydrostore-Potassium

Of course Potassium is the third important nutrient in my list. This element helps your precious plants to move and form sugars, starches and oils in plants. Thus increasing the plants vigour and also helping in warding off diseases. The correct dose of Potassium will also improve your plants fruit and flower quality.

Certain soils are devoid in this element. Notably, sandy types of soil. Potassium can also become deficient in soils that are over grazed and also where plants are grown in intensive cropping. A good example of this is the growing of banana plantations.

Potassium has many plant benefits

Including the regulation of opening and closing the stomata, thus regulating Co2 uptake. This of course occurs in “Photosynthesis”. I try not to be too technical potassium will trigger the activity of ATP (Adenosine Triphosphate).

ATP is a very important source of energy stimulating chemical processes within the plant. Yet another major role of potassium is the regulation of the plants water take up. Importantly, through the plant roots and also water loss through the stomata. Potassium is also known to improve the plants drought resistance.

Many growth enzymes are also activated by Potassium.

Alg·A·Mic is a revitalising product that contains a low level of NPK (Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium) – making it impossible to overdose.

It can be added to every substrate during the flowering and growing period. Of course like most plant growers then nutrients could be a little difficult to understand! However most producers of the chemicals make it easy and your local Hydrostore are always there to help.

phosphorus

Hydroponics-Phosphorus

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Phosphorus

Of course, phosphorus enables a better root and flower growth for your precious plants. Importantly, it also helps your plants cope with certain environmental stresses. Thus phosphorus is an essential part of growing heathy and vigorous plants. Starting with the roots, then Phosphorus is well associated with healthy root development. Plant stalks and stems are increased due to this element. Flower formation is well improved and increased seed production.

So, phosphorus enables your improve your plants quality. Enabling early crop maturity and a better resistance to plant diseases. Generally this element will give your plants support throughout its entire life. A good article can be seen on the “https://www.easy-grow.co.uk/diagnosing-phosphorus-imbalances-in-hydroponics/” web site.

There are a few different methods of giving your plants Phosphorous.

 So, one of the commonest is the turning of “Rock Phosphate” into “Phosphoric Acid”. This process allows your plants to take up the phosphorus into the root system. This is a good way of giving your tomato plants a good start. So, by sprinkling some Rock Phosphate into the bottom of your tomato plant pot before introducing the plant. Importantly, this will give your tomato plants root system good development and a great start in life. 

Other organic sources of Phosphate include “Bone meal”!

Bone meal will release the phosphate to the plant in three to six months’ time. Other products are available so its well worth seeing what’s available in your area.  

Of course there is a few alternatives to rock phosphate! Including “superphosphate” and as already mentioned, bone meal. So, a good deal of the world’s rock phosphate comes out of North America. After further chemical treatment it then becomes known as superphosphate. This product is soluble in water. Rock phosphate like rock potash is very slow in action and the conversion from insoluble phosphate to the soluble form is almost negligible. It does contain trace elements and a single application will remain active for some years, best applied early in the Autumn or Winter to be effective by the next Summer. 

Of course there are many products available with a higher phosphorus level from your local Hydrostore shop. Finally, this is also very important in hydroponics growing systems.

Hydroponics-Six Important Nutrients-Nitrogen

Hydroponics-Six Important Nutrients-Nitrogen

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Hydroponics-Six Important Nutrients-Nitrogen

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Hydroponics-Six Important Nutrients-Nitrogen

So also known as “nitrate” because this is the form of Nitrogen that your precious plants use. Of course Nitrogen is responsible for the strong growth of the plants leaves. Importantly, it is also the reason that the leaves are green coloured. This green colouring helps with the process of Chlorophyll production.

Of course there are thousands of different types of fertilizer products to choose from! However there are two basic types of nitrogen fertilizers that we use in horticulture.

 1-Is a quick release product (Urea) 

2- Is a slow release product (methylene Urea) 

A great example of this is the quick release fertilizer used by turf growers for the making of lawns. Green lawns make a good looking lawn and the growers will use a quick release product. Naturally the fast release range of fertilizers will make the availability of nitrogen instant!

However the addition of this quick release fertilizer is only short lived. This product can easily be washed away in a heavy rainy period. On the other hand it can also burn the lawn turf if used in unregulated amounts. This is my problem, I always throw in that extra handful on to my lawn. It pays to give the recommended dose of granules and don’t overdo things. of course, I am now talking gardening in general! Hydroponics have a very set of rules governing the amounts of nutrients to be used.

So, too much a dose can make your grass grow too quick and leggy. Of course for safety it may be best to use a slow release product. This will ensure the best take up rate for your plants. Also by using the slow release then the danger of burning and speedy growth will be slower and less dramatic. So, giving a better growth experience for your plants or lawn. So this now leads me to the second of our three important nutrients phosphate.   

Of course this is also very important in hydroponics growing systems.

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Growing Food-First time Hydroponics Tomato Growing

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Growing Food-First time Hydroponics Tomato Growing

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Growing Food-First time Hydroponics Tomato Growing

So , I am starting off my growing experience by experimentation! In other words I am going to start at the beginning by setting up my own hydroponics planting systems from the very basic ideas available.

Of course in the past couple of years I have made a start by creating a set up for a different way of growing some tomato plants. Of course I also used the traditional growbag method ! Just to compare the results if this was going to be possible. Tomatoes are always a favourite fruit to grow. Because the are fairly easy for a beginner to try and the final product, (large juicy tomatoes) are always a popular gift to any visitors to your garden. Including of course your friends and family.

Equipment from Leeds Hydrostore

Simply because my daughters husband works their then I decided to take his advice and tell me what equipment I should be needing to set up my tomato growing system. When I visited the well equipped store then I was unclear to the things that I would require. First thing was to be somewhere to store the water! So I chose the large 400 litre Flexi-Tank . I found this very easy to erect and it slotted into the corner of my 12ft x 10ft greenhouse perfectly.

The next piece of equipment was to be an “auto-pot system” . This was to be connected up to the water tank to supply my plants with water and nutrients. Although I found the connecting up of the various small pipes and plastic connections a little fiddly, but finally it was then complete.

Once in place it was ready for planting up. I was going to use “Canadian Xpress Hydro Grow” for the first time. The growing medium comes in two parts A and B. However I found the instructions easy to follow and added it to the now full water tank. Believe it or not this was going to enable me and the wife to have a few days holiday, without worrying about the tomato plants getting stressed out dur to lack of watering .

So, the plant medium that I chose was to be a mixture of “clay balls” and “Coco natural Coir“. These were supplied in 50 litre bags and easy to handle. So, after the set up was all ready then I planted my young tomato plants and sat back to see what would happen. Consequently, having never done this method of growing anything before before!

Growbags at the same time

So, at the same time them I planted out ten growbags using this traditional method and watering by hand. I must say the hydroponics method truly produced the best results. I was amazed at the amount of water and nutrients that the plants would use to grow properly. My tomato trusses went right up to the greenhouse roof producing truss after truss of excellent quality tomatoes.

This was in the end to be the far better method of growing and I will not be using growbags any more. The results of the hydroponics method were tremendous. So, we had fresh grown tomatoes right in to the autumn and I cant wait for the new season to begin again.

Plant Pests-Whitefly

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Plant Pests-Whitefly

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Plant Pests-Whitefly

So these little past are the pests that haunts most plant growers, including myself. Of course whitefly come in many different variants. It is estimated that there are about 1500 different species of these little garden horrors.

However one variety is known as the glasshouse whitefly. This garden pest is a sap-sucking pest that attacks your plants. So, at the same time they give off a sticky substance better known as “honeydew” . This honeydew can be seen all over the infestation. Adult whitefly and the nymphs excrete this sticky honeydew on the foliage, which allows the growth of black sooty moulds. This black sooty mould can become a real problem making the plants look totally un-healthy. Ultimately, the leaves, fruit and stems are all targets for these little monsters.

Last year was a particular bad year for whitefly. These little garden enemies thrive in hot summers. Last year was a good year for growers of all types of plants! However I had a particular bad attack of whitefly. Especially on my pepper plants. My peppers were very bushy. So, the first whitefly outbreak was missed . Causing me a much bigger problem and not really catching up with problem. Eventually I had to attack them by removing my peppers outdoors. This gave me the room to attack the whiteflies from every angle. next year I will keep a closer eye on things.

Controls

So one of the favoured “biological” methods is to introduce the tiny parasitoid wasps, Encarsia formosa. Importantly, these enemies of the whitefly must be introduced in the first instance. Giving the wasps time to devour the whitefly nymphs emerging pests. After a successful attack of the nymphs by the parasitic wasps then the results will let you see the nymphs turning black. This turning black will help you monitor the situation of how the wasps are doing.

Importantly, the grower must be careful not to use an insecticide at the same time as introducing the parasitic wasps. Another point is not to use the yellow stick cards when introducing the wasps. Of course, the wasps will also land on the sticky cards. As a general rule then the following precautions will be a great help when battling against these little pests.

As I recommend for most flying insects then the sticky yellow cards must be used. There are other types of sticky cards and all are most useful. These cards help the grower to spot any type of insects at an early stage. After the pests are spotted then the attack against them can be mounted.

Newly introduced plants should be quarantined first before placing the plants in there final growing space. This gives time to allow any whitefly eggs or nymphs to develop and spotted so that action can be taken.

Watch for weeds

Growers should be aware that these insects will also thrive on weed. So good greenhouse housekeeping is imperative. Not allowing weeds to grow will eradicate this from happening.

Sooty moulds that develop in the later stages of a whitefly attack, thrive best in hot and humid environment! So good ventilation is very important.

Finally, good hygiene and cleaning your growing environment including the greenhouse should be carried out every winter. This should include using an “insect fumer” . Another product worth considering is the “Hot shots” vapour pads. These products give off an insecticide vapour that penetrates all the area where the growing takes place.

Plant Pests-Fungus Gnats

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Plant Pests-Fungus Gnats

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Plant Pests-Fungus Gnats

So one good thing about “Fungus Gnats” is that the adults are visible to the naked eye. I must confess that I am not familiar with these little pests and so m on a learning kerb myself. Perhaps one of the reasons why is because the larvae actually feed on the plants roots including the feeder roots. Of course damage to these feeder roots causes slower growth of the effected plants.

Consequently, this opens up the way for the plants to be effected by bacterial infections. Adult gnats can over winter in cold weather. many other insect pests are destroyed by the old of winter but not these little guys.

Over watering could be problem

So the fungus gnats will invariably feed on plants that have the beginning of root rot. Often caused by the plant grower over watering. The gnats can often be found living in over saturated soil. However , a good watering regime would be the answer. In my experience then beginner gardeners will often over water their plants ! Thinking that more water is better than none. However, this is not so a like most things then practice and disappointments due to dying plants will all come with practice and tolerance.

My advice is always to use sticky yellow pads

Like most things insects the adult gnats will be flying around your greenhouse/conservatory or growing room. Catching the adults as they are flying about will help the grower to identify pests. Including the adult fungus gnats. However fungus gnats can also be seen walking about on your plants as they are not very good flyers. In my opinion we should all use the yellow sticky pads where ever space is available. I use them all the time and its unbelievable what little monsters that you can catch and identify.

Once identified you can take evasive action to get rid of the pests.

Natural organic measures can be used including the addition of parasitic nematodes Steinernema feltiae. Of course, these naturally occurring parasites which are soil born will naturally infect the fungus gnats larvae with bacteria and fortunately, kill them.

IMPORTANTLY, DON’T WAIT UNTIL YOU SEE ADULT FLIES

So like many things in life then “prevention is better than a cure”! here at Hydrostore we can offer any grower a preventative online. The product that we recommend is “Nilnat” . Commercial growers use this products before the crops are infected. Also you can use this if you spot the small black adult walking about close to your growing medium or on the yellow sticky cards.

Plant Pests-Red Spider Mites

Plant Pests-Red Spider Mites

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Plant Pests-Red Spider Mites

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Plant Pests-Red Spider Mites

So spider mite always come as a shock when spotted. Including a greater shock to new gardeners. Growers of indoor plants are most likely to come across these little monsters. They often cause damage before they are spotted. When look at under a microscope like the above image they truly look formidable creatures. I liken them to some types of aliens from a distant planet.

The plant cells are damaged by these little monsters. Their mouthparts will stick into the plant cell structure and then drain the cells content. Damage caused looks like tiny little speckles on your plant leaves. The leaves are marked yellow and white and very noticeable. So, the leaves will eventually turn a bronze colour and eventually fall off causing the grower much concern.

If infestations are not tackled then your plants will often be covered with horrible looking webs. Eventually, the attack will defoliate the plant and kill it.

Difficult to treat red spider mite

Unfortunately, red spider mite are extremely difficult to spot in the first instance. So, even with us older gardeners, these little red devils are difficult to spot in the first instance. Naturally this gives the mites a little time to establish themselves. So, spreading amongst nearby plants without being spotted.

Secondly, these pests tend to graze beneath the leaves of the plant, keeping hidden away. This has two actions! Firstly, they are difficult to spray under the leaves! Secondly, they are also difficult to find by their natural predators.

Spider mites are fast breeders. Importantly, a new generation can be born every five days in the right conditions. In general the life span of these little pests is about a month. Within this month the females can lay hundreds of eggs each.

Plant Pests-Red Spider Mites

Just like the aphids then the ladybird and the lace wings are probably the best natural way of trying to control the red spider mites. Soap sprays are also a good way of controlling these insects. Spider mites will start a new infestation when the temperature rises in the spring. Temperatures of 25C usually bring them out of winter hibernation. Growers that use artificial lighting to grow all year round are more likely to get attacks and must be vigilant at all times.

Other methods of control include the introduction of predatory mites. Known as “Amblyseius Andersoni” . This variety of mite feeds on pollen and some other species of mite. Slow breeder sachets are available which slowly release the good mites over a three to four week period.

Finally a natural product is also available known as SMC natural control. This works by a physical means blocking the breathing holes of the red mites and insects causing death by suffocation. Incidentally, any spider mite eggs are unlikely to hatch due to their encapsulation within the medium and their obvious inability to transpire successfully into an adult spider mite.

Plant Pests-Starting With Aphids

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Plant Pests-Starting With Aphids

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Plant Pests-Starting With Aphids

There is no doubt about it that whatever and wherever you grow your plants then sooner or later you will be confronted by these little pasty guys! The dreaded aphids. In fact I have just sprayed some early clusters appearing on my greenhouse on the citrus trees. So, this prompted me to start a series of blog posts about pests and some of the best ways to control them.

What are Aphids ?

Well these little guys are small insects of differing colours. They can be seen in green (the popular I think) grey, black, red, yellow and a few other colour. The bodies are mainly pear shaped and they hang out in clusters of differing sizes depending on how long they are aloud to live. Of course its always a bit disheartening when you spot your fist Aphid outbreak! Especially when you are new to growing plants.

These little horrors can be found on most type of plant both in doors and outside. I our part of the world here in West Yorkshire the aphids are generally know by there colour. So, the green ones are known as “green flies” and the black and grey ones as “black flies”. Importantly though they are all aphids and require controlling in the same way.

So, usually the first sign of an outbreak will be spotted on “new growth leaves”. Aphids will live on the underside of new leaves and suck at the juices of the plant. Both indoor and outdoor plants can be affected, so a close watch should be a part of your plants maintenance. At first the aphids dont seam to have much affect on your young plant leaves. However a bad infestation will lead to the plant leaves dropping off, usually turning yellow first.

Aphids can spread diseases

Aphids can be a huge problem on certain crops. Of course we have all seen the shiny sticky substance they the give off. This is known as “Honeydew”. This sweet excretion is a food of other insects such as ants. Ants will often farm the aphids for their honeydew Thus perhaps causing other problems for the discerning gardener. So, another problem that can manifest itself is that the honeydew is also a food source for moulds. These moulds can often be seen on plants that have not been treated for the aphid infestation. They look unsightly and should be treated as soo as possible. All these things should be part of the plant growers hygiene practises and not neglected. Once you spot aphids then action must be taken ASAP.

Aphids give live birth

Of course this is why these little pests can multiply so quickly. Female aphids give birth to live young. So, as soon they are born then the young aphids are able to start the assault on your plants. After four moulting’s of a white coloured skin then these little guys can start producing more offspring’s. Fundamentally, increasing the size of the infestation with an aphid population explosion. This is why early vigilance and intervention is required by the plant grower, indoors or outdoors. If you see an early outbreak then attack it.

So, the young aphids are known as “nymphs”. This is common in the insect world. The nymphs look very much like the adult insects and can cause the same amount of plant damage accordingly. Aphids can easily spread their colonies to other parts of the plant or garden. This is done by some of the adults having wings. These adults emerge when the local colony is getting too large to sustain.

Aphids natural predators

Like most of the world of natural history then there are natural balances to help eradicate these aphid pests and the powdery mildew that follows. . Of course the most people know of the most popular aphid eater , the “ladybird) or “ladybug ” as it is called in the USA. These predators are a member of the beetles family. In my opinion then the ladybird is a common and welcome site to the regular outdoor gardener. These bright coloured flying beetles are a welcome site and come in any forms and colours. The most common been bright red with black spots.

Ladybirds arrive on this planet in four stages, Firstly the eggs are laid on wild plants such as nettles. The eggs hatch into a larva and quickly develop into the pups and then the adult ladybird emerges into the bright red and yellow dotted beetle that we all recognise. Clusters of up to forty eggs can be seen on the leaves of nettles and other wild plants. Consequently these eggs hatch in about four to ten days.

Ladybirds can be seen hibernating around garden sheds and even in houses. Emerging in spring and soon starting their life cycle over again. These beetle are rampant feeders of aphids and can eat as many as 5,000 aphids in a year.

Here in the UK ladybirds are available to buy. Adults or larvae are available between the months of April to August. Another good organic way of aphid control is from “Neem Oil” . This treatment is derived from the seeds of the tropical “Neem Tree” and can be used as an insecticide and other things such as, aphids, spidermites, mealybugs, and scale. It also controls diseases, such as powdery mildew. This is a beneficial product to have handy for your plants and is available from Hydrostore online.