So to keep in line with my last post, here are a few ideas to keep your growing room warm for your plants this winter. Many grow rooms are situated in modern homes with central heating.
Even though this year’s autumn has been pretty mild, temperatures are starting to drop, especially at night, as winter approaches. As a result, every indoor gardener will be looking for ways to maintain grow rooms at the ideal range of 25–28°C when the lights are on and 18–21°C when they are off.
Low grow room temperatures can harm your plants; one of the first symptoms is purpling of the stems, which is followed by sluggish or stunted development as nutrient intake and photosynthesis levels fall. Since, let’s face it, nobody wants a subpar harvest after all the hard work you’ve put in over the previous weeks, the outcome will not only be a bad final output but also a lower-than-expected level of harvest quality.
So, the simple way would be to keep the central heating on 24/7. The problem with this is that it would probably be too warm for us humans to tolerate. Individual radiator thermostats are a great idea, as you can control each radiator. including the one in the growing room. If the radiator is set to a certain temperature, it will change how much heat it sends out to match. Don’t forget that heat is given off by your lighting and ventilation, so some sort of control will be required to maintain a certain temperature.
Heat control can be easy to maintain, provided there are no dramatic temperature changes.
Some methods of heat control
By using some of these ideas, you can keep the temperature from dropping too much. thus resulting in poor-growing plants and a smaller harvest. Earlier, I mentioned the lights. Of course, this depends on what lights you are using. Older lighting systems emit a lot of heat and can drastically change the temperature. LED lights burn at much lower temperatures and are more controllable, in my opinion.
Unfortunately, we have a large number of Victorian houses in the UK. These larger stone terraced houses are much more difficult to control, even with central heating systems. Therefore, there should be a couple more safeguards to look at.
Fan speed controllers can be used to reduce the amount of air intake and extraction (making things hotter or cooler)
For older properties you could add extra heating such as electric fan heater with an in built thermostat if possible.
Its always a good idea to Insulate your grow room floor, wall and ceiling (there are many products on the market at good prices)
In a water tank then use a water heater for large volumes of nutrient solution (dont put cold water onto your plants ! remember the 19c rule)
Buy a maximum and minimum temperature gauge and regularly check the humidity readings.
Dont pull in freezing air so obtain your intake air from a different room (Keeps the temperature ambient)
Ensure your nutrients are stored at the correct room temperature
Change round day and night by running your grow lights during the night and lights off during the day.
I hope this will help new growers in particularly.
Winter is now upon us in the northern hemisphere. Here in West Yorkshire, we have already experienced several frosts and a snowstorm. thus making it impossible to do any outdoor gardening.
Most plants that are hardy have already closed down for their winter break. The deciduous trees have lost their leaves, and only the conifers still have green leaves. In my case, my lemons and other citrus fruit are sitting happily in their cosy greenhouse, together with LED lighting to lengthen our dark winter days.
So, indoor hydroponic growers can experience temperature fluctuations during very cold spells of weather. Roots are very intolerant of temperature changes. Changes in growth can make significant changes to the growth rate if the temperature is allowed to drop below 19 °C. So at this temperature, the plant’s root zone could easily be damaged. The growth begins to slow, and the outside of the root can be damaged.
Even plants in the right zone can be harmed by the cold.
Why do plants suffer from cold
The causes of this are numerous and depend on the location, soil, length of the cold, and other elements. Depending on the type of plant and the aforementioned criteria, different plants respond differently to cold. The USDA’s recommendations for plant hardiness are simply that—recommendations.
A plant’s real hardiness will vary depending on its microclimate, exposure, water and nutrient uptake, and general health. There are several reasons why cold might harm plants, but we’ll focus on the most obvious ones. A plant’s health and hardiness are impacted by every circumstance that it encounters.
Plants that aren’t getting enough water may droop and even die. Negative plant health can also result from too many or too little nutrients. In a similar manner, meteorological conditions can harm a plant’s vitality. Plants are damaged by the freezing of their cells, which also obstructs the movement of water and nutrients.
Many experts believe that the ideal root temperature is between 20 and 21 degrees Celsius. So, to enable the plants to absorb nutrients correctly, Providing a nutrient solution that is strong enough to stimulate new growth is important for the development of a healthy plant. Keeping good oxygen levels and content is imperative for good results.
Concrete floors can be a problem
When writing this blog,
I was thinking primarily about temperature variations in a building with concrete floors. We all know about the cold feeling we get when we walk inside a building with a concrete floor. Particularly in the winter. So, if plants are grown under these conditions, then there is likely to be a large temperature variation. This could be overlooked when starting out your growing season in the spring.
Even a small garage used for growing will suffer variations in temperature in the winter. As a result, many growers use some type of rubber mat to help insulate their precious crop. Personally, I would raise the plants off the floor to prevent them from getting “cold feet” and ruining the crop at a later stage.
Cold can also affect the temperature of the water tank used to mix and provide the nutrients. Growing rooms must be well insulated so the air temperature does not change significantly in a cold spell. As I previously stated, the 19th century standard should not be compromised. Your plants will be open to attacks from many pests and diseases. The weaker your hydroponics plant is, the more likely it is to have been attacked.
Of course, all this will lead to a poor crop and disappointment. So prepare for winter by making your plants as cosy as possible to avoid disappointment and a poor harvest. Heaters are the answer!
So as my readers will know, I am relatively new to hydroponic gardening. I have since learned that hydroponics has advantages over growing in soil. Plants grown using the hydroponics method will probably grow around 50% faster than their soil-grown counterparts.
Of course, this will usually end up with better crop production. Including the extra supply of oxygen to the roots when using hydroponics as a growing medium.
Better root systems will encourage more oxygen to enter the plants. As a result, they absorb nutrients more quickly. Because the plants are growing in water, they don’t have to spend time in the soil looking for the nutrients they require to grow correctly.
Those nutrients are being delivered to the plant throughout the day. Finding and breaking down food requires very little energy for the hydroponic plant. The plant then uses this saved energy to grow faster and to produce more fruit.
Less bug infestations
Another advantage that plants have when grown using hydroponics is that they are less likely to have infestations of fungus and plant disease. Of course, this must be combined with cleanliness and general garden hygiene!
Soil gardening, believe it or not, uses much more water than hydroponics. thus offering many benefits to the environmentally friendly Gardner. Starting with top soil erosion, it does not exist in hydroponics.
Including the use of peat as a growing medium. Peat, as we all know, will be phased out in the near future with coco-husk taking over. Hydroponics uses a constant amount of nutrients, therefore using less water. Brown mosses, Sphagnums, sedges, and semi-aquatic plants’ skeletal remains are among the partially decomposed organic materials that make up peat moss.
Although peatlands can be found all over the world. They are more prevalent in the Northern Hemisphere’s temperate, boreal, and subarctic regions. Here in West Yorkshire there is abundant peat ln wetlands like bogs, fens, mires, and especially on the moors, where peat builds up. Vegetation that is submerged beneath the water decomposes in anaerobic – or airless – conditions that cause the process to go slowly.
However, Like peat moss, coconut coir has many applications. It can store a lot of water with ease. Although certain plants could prefer soil that is a little bit more acidic or a little bit more alkaline, it has a pH level of 6.0, which is near to ideal for most garden plants.
The texture of peat moss is soft and spongy.
It has an amazing capacity to retain moisture and air . While enabling extra water to drain without restriction. It’s often devoid of diseases and pests. And the price is reasonable.
Peat moss has been utilised as a soil improver, in soilless mixtures, and as a seed starting medium since the 1940s. Peat is a common ingredient in triple mixes and commercial potting soil. It creates the ideal climate for developing robust root systems, which is why gardeners adore it.
As much as we enjoy utilising peat moss in our gardens, doing so has a significant negative impact on the ecosystem. It belongs in the peatland, where it should remain for very good reasons.
Another advantage is that there are fewer pests, and therefore fewer pesticides are used (once again, this must be combined with cleanliness and general garden hygiene). Hydroponics on large scales will be the norm in the future. The future is already here, looking at the size of the giant glasshouses you can see dotting Europe and North America. Global warming is expected to become the major cause of soil erosion in parts of the world. turning fertile areas into deserts.
Glass houses the size of large towns will become the stuff of science fiction.
Growers now have complete control over the amount of water and nutrients used for growing huge crops. Even in warmer climates such as Spain, hydroponics plays some sort of role in controlling water usage.
The purpose of a growing medium is to aerate and support the root system of the plant and to channel the water and nutrients. It will be interesting to see how things pan out going forward. However, we have still made great strides in developing our growing methods for whatever crops we decide to grow. A Good Look at Hydroponics and the Environment by Eric Roberts
https://hydroponicsinfo.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/giant-glasshouses-will-be-the-norm.jpg587688Eric Robertshttps://hydroponicsinfo.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2024/06/planters-2-300x300.jpgEric Roberts2021-11-15 10:28:502023-01-08 10:55:36Hydroponics and the Environment
I must confess right now that I have never been a city dweller. Because of this, I have picked up ideas from other people who know about this subject. However, I have seen many great gardening ideas in built-up areas and city centres in many countries on my travels.
Even in huge cities like New York then things can be seen growing from the roof tops of the lower buildings. My own capitol city of London has splendid roof gardens. Growing many things in the micro climate created by the heat and shelter coming from the many buildings.
City dwellers dont have the space
So, when walking through our city streets, it is easy to see that a conventional garden would be out of the question. Most people have paved over any space that they may have for parking their cars.
Whilst many UK houses have a pitched roof, so it would not be possible for a roof garden. However, small apartment blocks do have access to a flat roof. Inner cities are full of suitable apartment blocks on which a roof garden could be growing flowers and vegetables for them.
Canal boats can also be used to grow plants using lighter hydroponic methods. But I think that’s another story.
Soil, of course, could be a problem! Due to the weight and accessibility on to the roof top. So why not try the hydroponics method of growing without soil. A hydroponic rooftop garden would be an excellent choice for you if you want to have a hassle free gardening experience.
All sorts of plants can easily be grown and cared for from your balcony. We often see this in Mediterranean countries with many balconies growing wonder geranium plants and of course bougainvillea’s trailing down with their wonderful purple and red flower bracts shining in the sun.
Tomatoes and excellent choice.
Of course, tomatoes would be an excellent choice to grow using hydroponic methods. Along with peppers and herbs. Importantly though it is always a sensible idea to check for any weight restrictions or building regulations before going ahead with your growing plans.
Newer buildings have special roof areas to carry extra weight. So it would be well worth checking! So, to start rooftop hydroponic gardening. Then, you should decide on what plants or herbs you want to grow and how many of each.
In a rooftop garden, containers are where you can showcase your personal flair, but that doesn’t mean you have to spend a fortune on them—although you certainly could. When selecting the size of your rooftop containers, weight and material should also be taken into consideration in addition to aesthetics.
Weight is paramount
Whatever plants you choose, you’ll need containers big enough for their roots! But if you’re concerned about how much weight your rooftop can sustain, the weight of the container becomes a problem. Keep in mind that when you water the plants, the pots get extra heavier. Clay, terra cotta, and cement are examples of conventional materials that can be fairly weighty. For a novice gardener, the soil is frequently the least interesting component, but it is the most crucial one. Healthy plants grow on good soil, which means less work for you. You will benefit from being able to bring in soil if you are growing in raised beds and containers rather than having to use what is already on the ground. The amount of soil required will vary, so do your study before planting your options.
Remember when Plant Growing on your roofs, that weight is of the upmost importance. including calculating additional weight for when it snows or at least rains.
Once you decide the number of plants you want to grow, you need to get plastic containers or plastic tubes to grow your vegetables or herbs. Next, you need to cut holes in them to place your potted plants properly. You can either buy seedlings from a reputable garden centre or grow your own seedlings. Perhaps on your windowsill! Once you have your seedlings, take them out of their pots and rinse the roots to remove the dirt.
After washing them properly, you need to place your plants in some sort of growing medium, such as rockwool, vermiculite, or any other suitable growing substrate, and then feed them with a nutrient solution to make them grow.
https://hydroponicsinfo.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/balcony-and-roof-growing.jpg534800Eric Robertshttps://hydroponicsinfo.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2024/06/planters-2-300x300.jpgEric Roberts2021-11-15 08:03:562022-11-20 07:51:52Plant Growing on your roofs
Of course, there are two main ways of producing new plants with differing variations. We can either use seed germination or take cuttings. Taking cuttings ensures that the mother plant is correctly cloned. Importantly, though, the key part of any germination method is having the correct conditions for either propagation or germination. Of course, to produce new and healthy plants,
The “radicle” is the first part of seed germination to develop. So, it is the embryonic root that will grow downward. This is the first thing that I can see when germinating my large avocado seeds in water. I actually grow these in a small glass of water that suspends the large seed halfway out of the top of the glass. Of course, this ensures that I can keep an eye on germination. So, the radicle is the first thing, followed by the real tap root. I then pot them up, and they turn into a nice houseplant. This is a great way to teach young people about growing things!
Next development
The next thing to start growing is the “hypocotyl” which is the embryonic axis that forms the seedling leaves, or “cotyledons.” In the case of my avocado, this can take a few weeks. Eventually the true leaves will appear, and the plant will grow away to reach the light source.
Typically, all seeds will eventually burst into life when the correct conditions are met. Good germination rates can be aided with experience from the gardener. For example, many seeds are hard-coated. This protects the seeds until the correct moisture levels are met. So, the grower can help this happen by putting the seed on a damp cloth or piece of tissue paper for the night. So, one good example of this is sweet peas.
Sweet peas must be soaked before planting in a warm seed tray with a potting mix or by using an hydroponic system.
Of course, in hydroponics, there are more up-to-date methods before sowing your valuable seeds. Many growers will soak hard-shelled seeds in a solution of water that includes a rooting stimulator. Such a product comes to mind as “Katana Roots.” Secondly, once the roots and sprouts appear, a specific plant food can be administered to aid instant growth. One that comes to mind is sold as “Shogun Start,” which contains very low levels of micronutrients that a young plant requires when first starting out.
You may have learned as a child that sprouting an avocado seed is simple. Purchase an avocado, savour its lush, green flesh, and then clean the seed. The top and bottom ends of the seed should be kept in mind. Next, insert many toothpicks into the seed’s equator and set the toothpicks on a glass of water so that the seed’s bottom inch is submerged.
You may have to be patent as rooting can sometimes take a while.
Since the seedling will still be indoors at this point, you can plant it anytime of the year.
Place the glass in a warm location away from direct sunshine, adding water as necessary to maintain the water level at the bottom inch of the seed. A seedling emerges after the development of its roots.
Of course, you should germinate your seeds in a warm and moist environment where possible. Most keen growers will purchase an electric propagator. These are not all that expensive these days and will ensure a good rate of success. You will still need to soak any hard seeds overnight, though. Most seeds, however, will germinate easily if soaked between damp tissue paper before planting.
In hydroponics many growers will use coco coir as a growing medium and rockwool cubes to plant on the germinated seeds in. These are accepted methods in many different fields of gardening these days.
So I first read about this idea in a well-known Indian hydroponics blog! As a keeper of poultry, I found the story very interesting. Firstly, I am lucky enough to have a large lawn. This, of course, is more than enough greens for my chickens. When they eat the grass and clover, I simply move the coop to a fresh, green area. I am fortunate enough to use the “Eglu” chicken coops.
However, many chicken keepers only have the same run for their birds. So, this is soon eaten away, and the birds are usually scratching on the bare earth or any substance that the owner puts down as bedding. Of course, straw or wood chips of some sort. Poultry, like any other bird, thrives on greens of most kinds.
Greens are organic and full of protein!
Many poultry keepers will feed their birds green kitchen scraps, which is fine! However, it is possible to grow your chicken’s green feed hydroponically and at an inexpensive price. Feeding your chickens hydroponically grown greens will produce better quality eggs with nice, bright yellow yolks.
Hydroponic fodder is rich in protein, beta-carotene, trace elements, and enzymes. Sprouts can be easily grown in trays. In fact, about 2 kg of seeds can produce around 10 kg of edible chicken fodder. Plastic trays are available from your local hydroponics store. These trays come in many sizes. from the normal seed tray size to large trays for holding a number of plant pots. These can be used for growing the sprouting seeds.
Seeds suitable for sprouting include mung, alfalfa, and mustard. Different types of lentils and mung seeds are also good choices. The seeds are simply spread with water onto a layer of tissue paper. The seeds are then spread on top of the wet tissue and placed in a light, warm place. For continuity, this should be spread out over a period of time. A greenhouse would be a perfect growing environment. However, a window sill on a south or east window would be fine.
These sprouting systems will be mature in a little over a week. Importantly, this is also a good winter treat for your chickens, as well as a summer supplement.
Many plant growers and gardeners I know are also avid poultry keepers. The two go hand in hand. So it may just be worth thinking about growing some nutritious seeds hydroponically for your precious egg providers.
Providing supplemental lighting for plants: LED lights can be used to provide additional light to plants in a greenhouse, particularly during the winter months when natural light levels are lower. This can help promote healthy plant growth and flowering.
Controlling temperature: LED lights can be used to heat a greenhouse during cold weather, helping to maintain optimal growing conditions for plants.
Improving plant growth and yield: LED lights can be used to improve the growth and yield of certain crops by providing the specific wavelengths of light that they need for optimal growth.
Reducing energy consumption: LED lights are highly energy efficient and can help reduce the energy costs of operating a greenhouse.
Improving the appearance of the greenhouse: LED lights can be used to create a visually appealing environment in the greenhouse, enhancing the overall aesthetic of the space.
Improving safety: LED lights can help improve safety in the greenhouse by providing bright, consistent lighting that makes it easier to navigate the space and identify any potential hazards.
Lumatek Zeus Pro Lighting
Why use LED lighting
Well, in my opinion, the cost of running your lighting has got to be among the main reasons for updating your equipment. So as time goes by, there are thousands of inventors looking for new ways to improve things. In my opinion, this is the next step forward in growers’ lighting.
Indeed, there are many reports from manufacturers that say the LED lights can save as much as 40%. In comparison to the energy used by the old-fashioned lighting equipment that many people still use, Also, the growing area that is lit up using LED will, of course, generate a higher yield per kWh. My own experience is that a friend who is a keen grower of all sorts of plants had a surplus LED light unit. He offered the light at a good price, and so I snapped his hand off. The unit is just plug-and-play and simple to install.
Used LED for the first time
Last winter was the first time that I used the new LED lights in my citrus plants overwintering greenhouse. So, the light emitted from the LEDs was a very bright white light. My older lights were, of course, orange-coloured. Combined with a good greenhouse heater, my plants overwintered perfectly. Consequently, I added two hours of daylight at each end of the day. So giving my lemons and oranges the extra daylight they require.
My plants are put out in the summer, and I then grow my tomatoes and peppers. Incidentally, my friend had bought a new Lumatek LED light unit, which is rated at a tremendous 60,000 hours. I was happy to buy his old LED unit for my first step into LED growing. However, he upgraded to the Lumatek, giving him a 5 year warranty.
Lumatek LED, s highly efficient
One of the first things I noticed about LED lighting was how cool they ran at. The Lumatek also operates at high efficiency with much less wattage. That means less heat release, lower gardening costs (which keeps the wife happy), and lower electric bills.
My friend is certainly impressed with his Lumatek Zeus Pro Led lighting setup. giving Scott, my friend, more powerful grow lights. Another added advantage of Lumatek LED lights is that they can be dimmed. Accordingly, adjust the PPF level. Naturally, to suit the crop and the growth stages. This is without changing or losing efficiency.
Flexible light intensity;
Lumatek LEDs can be turned down to change the PPF level to fit the crop and its growth stage. This doesn’t change how the spectral power is distributed or make them less effective. Of course, LED lighting is the future and is already in the process of overtaking the HPS lighting market. Because of the way that the multiple light strips are designed, the diodes are spread right across the canopy. This spreads out the light, giving it an almost perfect footprint.
So, the type of lighting that the Zeus product emits is as close as possible to natural sunlight. Of course, something that’s most beneficial to your plants Finally, once the Lumatek LEDs are up and running, you won’t ever have to change a lamp again. This should save you more than £1000 per year!
These lights are available from many hydroponic stores online, and callers are welcome.
https://hydroponicsinfo.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/zeus-600W-LED-unit.jpg491833Eric Robertshttps://hydroponicsinfo.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2024/06/planters-2-300x300.jpgEric Roberts2021-09-02 13:30:352022-12-31 11:19:55Lumatek Zeus Pro Lighting
I must confess that tomatoes are probably the best and most rewarding things that you can grow. Also, they are a great choice for hydronic gardeners as well as conventional growers. Because of this, many growers think that they would do best in a hydroponic environment. Compared to being in a greenhouse or outside, I have tried all methods! This year, I grew in my usual greenhouse and have had mixed results.
I use two plastic water tanks to supply the pots, which are filled with a mixture of clay pebbles and coco peat made by Canna. So, you can buy this at your local hydrostore. However, I’ve discovered that it’s now available pre-mixed and ready to use. I will probably get this for the next growing season.
One of the most important vegetables in the world is the tomato.
Many of our favourite dishes use tomatoes, a tasty produce that is also healthy. Who eats French fries without ketchup? Everything Italian appears to have a tomato base. Red, plump, vine-ripened, and spotless tomatoes are most desirable. Hydroponics is an intriguing, non-traditional method of growing tomatoes with these characteristics.
Numerous fruits and vegetables can be grown with hydroponics very effectively and efficiently. It entails raising them in water that has critical plant nutrients dissolved in it, known as a nutrient solution. You can carry out this either with or without an artificial medium. Sand, gravel, rockwool, peat, sawdust, and vermiculite are some examples of these mediums. Greenhouses used in hydroponic systems are enclosed, temperature-controlled, and help prevent pest infestations.
One important thing to remember is that when choosing the type of tomatoes to grow using the hydroponics method,.
Then, you should only choose the “indeterminate” varieties of tomatoes. These grow like vines and can be trained to climb a cane. The flowers that produce the tomatoes will sprout in-between the leaf axils. This can be best seen in this excellent video:
apart from tying them to the canes as they grow. Then the only thing to do is to pinch out any growth that appears to be sprouting on the joints of the branches and main stem. These tomatoes are said to be “truss varieties” because they grow on trusses.
The efficient use of fertilisers and water intake, extremely high yields, lack of seasonality, and pest removal are benefits of hydroponically cultivating tomatoes. By not growing them in soil, factors like pH, salinity, infections, or poor drainage are eliminated that can impede growth. The farmer has complete control over the environment, ensuring that the tomatoes are growing in the best possible conditions. These tomatoes can also be planted all year long to always have fresh, vine-ripened tomatoes available.
Hydroponically cultivating tomatoes has a few drawbacks
Energy and capital inputs are very high. Additionally, success requires above-average managerial abilities. Hydroponics is only used for high-value crops like tomatoes due to these drawbacks.
To properly grow tomatoes hydroponically, a variety of outside elements must be managed. Light, temperature, humidity, and air flow are a few of these. Fertility, solution pH, and pruning are additional factors. These are all essential to the plants’ success and require precise, cautious management to function properly.
As the plant grows upward, you will be rewarded with bunches of green and then red tomatoes. As the plant reaches the top of the growing area, nip out the growing tip. thus allowing the plant to stop growing and put all its energy into producing a good tomato crop on the lower stems.
Just a mention that the determinate tomato varieties grow as a bush and are more suited to other types of growing methods.
Which varieties!
Cluster (Truss) Tomatoes
Because of my age (now very old), these are my first-choice tomato varieties. These are the types that look like regular tomatoes or vine tomatoes. As I have said, they grow in trusses and attain the regular-looking size of tomatoes. Of course, most gardeners recognise the names of these varieties because of their regular good performance and dependability. Old favourites such as Alicante, Ailsa Craig, and Moneymaker are still very popular varieties. Also, I grow a few F1 hybrid varieties such as “Shirley” and “Cristal.”
However, if you want to save the seeds for your next year’s crop, F1 hybrid seeds will not come true to variety. Finally, I find that the truss tomatoes have an excellent taste and are perfect for the salad bowl. I also like to cook them for breakfast with some eggs and bacon; they taste delicious.
Beefsteak Tomatoes-
So, these are my second-preferred variety to grow. These can grow very large, and I must admit to showing off their size when we have visitors to the house! I first saw this type of tomato when I was a young man and went to Spain for my summer holidays. They were not available in the UK at the time and were considered exotics. They looked great sliced on a lovely Spanish salad.
Later, when I visited France, I bought some “Marmande” seeds in a local garden centre. These were not the giants, but they were very similar to the beefsteak tomatoes found in Spain. Beefsteaks can also come in F1 varieties, so beware of saving the seeds as they won’t come true. This year, I tried a variety called “Pink Brandywine.” So, when sliced, they just fit into a slice of bread. The flavour is good, and they are excellent sliced with a pinch of salt and some good “virgin olive oil” sprinkled on top.
I would try your one choice, though. Sometimes it is worth buying a couple of different plants from your local garden centre to find your one preference. Believe me, it is well worth the effort, and there is nothing tastier than your own homegrown tomatoes.
Plum Tomatoes Gain Popularity: Which Tomatoes for Hydroponics
Italy is becoming a very popular tourist attraction, and I believe it is the true home of the “plum tomatoes.” Again, these would only be found in canned tomatoes and would be inaccessible to UK gardeners. However, they are now widely available and are worth a try. They grow in the same way as a vine and are popular for their delicious flavour and plum-shaped fruit. I love to grow plum tomatoes and have been successful with the varieties “Roma” and ” San Marzano.”
So, both these varieties have grown very well next to my regular crops and the flavours are very tasty. I love these cooked with a little oil and two fried eggs on top for my breakfast. Fresh from my greenhouse then life could not be better!
Now there are many different colours!-Which Tomatoes for Hydroponics
During the past few years, “cherry tomatoes” have become a popular choice for salads and also for mixing with mainly Italian dishes. because they can be kept whole and remain in shape when cooked. However, I am not a fan of these, and so far I have not grown any. There are types that can be grown in a hanging basket and cascade from the basket called “Tumbler” . I may try these, but so far I’ve given them a miss.
Anyhow, to make the salad bowl more interesting, it is possible to buy tomatoes that have many different colours. Hence, orange-coloured varieties are now popular, including “Orange Santa” and “Orange Wellington.” Dark-coloured tomatoes don’t look right to me ! They have very dark skin, despite not being completely black. Varieties such as ” Black Opal” are available, but these are not for me.
A very nice-looking striped tomato
is available called “tigerella“. hence the red back ground and yellow stripes. I have grown these, but my family thought they looked sick! Not for everyone, but certainly unique.
Finally all your growing mediums and plant care materials are available online from all over the UK via the “Hydrostore” website.
I must confess that this is one of the great and important parts of gardening and growing plants in general. Knowing that many of these little blighters that try to ruin our crops have a natural enemy These little predatory insects have one aim in life! to set out and destroy the very pests that we dread every growing season. Knowing who your little friends are will help you protect your precious plants during the growing season.
If a strong enough army can be assembled of these little creatures, then chemicals can be kept to a minimum.
Friendly bugs aid a natural balance
Most gardeners and growers are also interested in the rest of the natural world. This goes without saying!
Nature has a wonderful way of balancing things out. Also known as “predator and prey,” So ensuring that things in nature can balance things out Well, this also applies to creatures that can help us in the battle against garden pests. Generally, neither will wipe the other out completely, and so the balance of life is maintained.
One species will outgrow the other and vice versa. The commonest of these is the well-known “ladybird.” The ladybird is also known as the “ladybug” in many parts of the world and is a member of the “coccinellid species”
Of course, the ladybird is a well-known devourer of the aphid and scale insect families. These common pests can make a mockery of our new and precious plants. Indeed, many members of the ladybug family will lay their eggs directly in a colony of aphids. thus providing instant food for the developing larvae as the eggs begin to hatch. The world-wide family of the ladybird is huge! with almost 6,000 different members of the species.
Spring ladybird collection days
I often take a glass container with a lid and go out collecting these little creatures on a warm spring day. Luckily, we have some rough land covered in scrub near our local railway line. This is a great place to look for ladybirds emerging from hibernation. The ladybirds frequent the warm, sun-drenched embankments and are easily collected.
On arriving home I let them make their own way out of the glass jar and let them forage for the dreaded aphids. of course to eat!
Here in the UK, we are blessed with about 46 species of ladybirds. all with differing patterns and body sizes. So, these little creatures come in many colours and spots. including red, yellow, orange, and black. When I was a kid, the most common ones were the ones that were red with black spots.
We always thought that the yellow and black ones were somehow poisonous. Hence, keeping well away from them and do not make contact with them. The red ladybird with seven black spots was the most communist, and it’s still around in 2021.
Harlequin ladybird now the most common in the UK-Friendly Bugs-ladybirds
However, a relatively new type of ladybird is now taking over as the number one contender. Known as the “harlequin ladybird,” Unfortunately, the harlequin is killing other popular species. I must admit that there has been an increase in the so called poisonous ladybugs of my childhood.
This particular type of ladybird comes in different disguises. They can be black with red spots to orange with white spots. Fortunately, they all have the same aim in life, which is, of course, to find and eat aphids and their associates.
Incredibly, there is a blue-coloured ladybug! This is known as the “steel-blue ladybird” and comes from Australia and New Zealand. This species is also a voracious eater of scale insects and aphid populations. Particularly beneficial to citrus growers, assisting with the common “scale insect” infections of the fruit crop.
I have seen what I thought was a blue ladybird. However, it was more likely to have been a “blue mint beetle,” which is very similar in size to a ladybird but feed on green vegetation and not aphids.
Most gardeners and growers cringe at the first sight of the dreaded “grey mould,” known as Botrytis cinerea. I do find that the fungus is synonymous with damp, warm conditions. Certain crops are more susceptible than others. Strawberries are the crop that comes to mind, but the dreaded fungus can become a nightmare for all growers. So, this fungus is what’s known as a “necrotrophic” . Of course, that means that the fungus kills the host to get all the nutrients that it needs.
Botrytis will also affect well-known plants grown indoors. attacking weak plants and dying flowers. Importantly, this fungus plays a big part in the natural growth cycle of nature. So, helping to form an important part of the natural breakdown of natural substances. Unfortunately, when it affects your precious plants, it can become a real pest problem.
6 signs of Botrytis
Botrytis, also known as grey mold, is a fungal disease that can affect a wide range of plants, including flowers, vegetables, and fruit trees. Some signs of botrytis infection include:
Brown or gray patches on leaves, stems, or flowers. These patches are often fuzzy or cobweb-like in appearance and may spread rapidly.
Wilting or drooping of affected plants.
Black or brown lesions on the stems or fruit of plants.
Shriveled, rotting, or decayed areas on the plant tissue.
The presence of dark, spores on the affected plant tissue.
A musty or moldy smell emanating from the affected plants.
If you suspect that your plants may be infected with botrytis, it is important to take action to control the spread of the disease. This may involve removing and destroying infected plant tissue, applying fungicides, and practicing good cultural control measures such as avoiding overhead watering and improving air circulation around the plants.
In my experience, the first signs can be seen on your plants in a damp, wet summer! with plenty of sun and rain. Unfortunately, this summer (2021) is such a year. The only thing you can do is keep an eye on your crop for the first signs of the dreaded dark spots.
The plant tissue, usually the leaves, will become darker and softer due to the death of the host plant’s leaves or flowers. Consequently, a furry grey mould will quickly develop on these dark spots.
Spores develop in the air
Unfortunately, the mold is spread by airborne spores. so affecting plants when the weather starts to warm up in the spring. Structures called condias are usually formed from previous years’ infected plants. These are airborne and transported through the air so coming into contact with the host plant’s leaves and other parts of the plant.
If you find that you have the start of an infection, then get rid of the plant parts that are infected. The infected plant parts should be burned if possible or taken as far away as possible for disposal.
I must say, though, that it is very hard to get rid of an infection and that losses are almost certain. This is because the mould sends out clouds of spores onto nearby plants when it is moved. As time passes, the infection spreads.
There are many preparations that claim to prevent botrytis attacks. One that I think is worth trying is prevention by using “BAC foliar spray” on your plants to try and help prevent an attack.
