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Hydroponics and the Environment

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Hydroponics and the Environment

Hydroponics and the Environment

So as my readers will know, I am relatively new to hydroponic gardening. I have since learned that hydroponics has advantages over growing in soil. Plants grown using the hydroponics method will probably grow around 50% faster than their soil-grown counterparts.

Of course, this will usually end up with better crop production. Including the extra supply of oxygen to the roots when using hydroponics as a growing medium.

Better root systems will encourage more oxygen to enter the plants. As a result, they absorb nutrients more quickly. Because the plants are growing in water, they don’t have to spend time in the soil looking for the nutrients they require to grow correctly.

Those nutrients are being delivered to the plant throughout the day. Finding and breaking down food requires very little energy for the hydroponic plant. The plant then uses this saved energy to grow faster and to produce more fruit.

Less bug infestations

Another advantage that plants have when grown using hydroponics is that they are less likely to have infestations of fungus and plant disease. Of course, this must be combined with cleanliness and general garden hygiene!

Soil gardening, believe it or not, uses much more water than hydroponics. thus offering many benefits to the environmentally friendly Gardner. Starting with top soil erosion, it does not exist in hydroponics.

Including the use of peat as a growing medium. Peat, as we all know, will be phased out in the near future with coco-husk taking over. Hydroponics uses a constant amount of nutrients, therefore using less water. Brown mosses, Sphagnums, sedges, and semi-aquatic plants’ skeletal remains are among the partially decomposed organic materials that make up peat moss.

Although peatlands can be found all over the world. They are more prevalent in the Northern Hemisphere’s temperate, boreal, and subarctic regions. Here in West Yorkshire there is abundant peat ln wetlands like bogs, fens, mires, and especially on the moors, where peat builds up. Vegetation that is submerged beneath the water decomposes in anaerobic – or airless – conditions that cause the process to go slowly.

However, Like peat moss, coconut coir has many applications. It can store a lot of water with ease. Although certain plants could prefer soil that is a little bit more acidic or a little bit more alkaline, it has a pH level of 6.0, which is near to ideal for most garden plants.

The texture of peat moss is soft and spongy.

It has an amazing capacity to retain moisture and air . While enabling extra water to drain without restriction. It’s often devoid of diseases and pests. And the price is reasonable.

Peat moss has been utilised as a soil improver, in soilless mixtures, and as a seed starting medium since the 1940s. Peat is a common ingredient in triple mixes and commercial potting soil.
It creates the ideal climate for developing robust root systems, which is why gardeners adore it.

As much as we enjoy utilising peat moss in our gardens, doing so has a significant negative impact on the ecosystem. It belongs in the peatland, where it should remain for very good reasons.

Another advantage is that there are fewer pests, and therefore fewer pesticides are used (once again, this must be combined with cleanliness and general garden hygiene). Hydroponics on large scales will be the norm in the future. The future is already here, looking at the size of the giant glasshouses you can see dotting Europe and North America. Global warming is expected to become the major cause of soil erosion in parts of the world. turning fertile areas into deserts.

Glass houses the size of large towns will become the stuff of science fiction.

Growers now have complete control over the amount of water and nutrients used for growing huge crops. Even in warmer climates such as Spain, hydroponics plays some sort of role in controlling water usage.

The purpose of a growing medium is to aerate and support the root system of the plant and to channel the water and nutrients. It will be interesting to see how things pan out going forward. However, we have still made great strides in developing our growing methods for whatever crops we decide to grow. A Good Look at Hydroponics and the Environment by Eric Roberts

Plant Growing on your roofs

Plant Growing on your roofs

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Plant Growing on your roofs

Plant Growing on your roofs

I must confess right now that I have never been a city dweller. Because of this, I have picked up ideas from other people who know about this subject. However, I have seen many great gardening ideas in built-up areas and city centres in many countries on my travels.

Even in huge cities like New York then things can be seen growing from the roof tops of the lower buildings. My own capitol city of London has splendid roof gardens. Growing many things in the micro climate created by the heat and shelter coming from the many buildings.

City dwellers dont have the space

So, when walking through our city streets, it is easy to see that a conventional garden would be out of the question. Most people have paved over any space that they may have for parking their cars.

Whilst many UK houses have a pitched roof, so it would not be possible for a roof garden. However, small apartment blocks do have access to a flat roof. Inner cities are full of suitable apartment blocks on which a roof garden could be growing flowers and vegetables for them.

Canal boats can also be used to grow plants using lighter hydroponic methods. But I think that’s another story.

Soil, of course, could be a problem! Due to the weight and accessibility on to the roof top. So why not try the hydroponics method of growing without soil. A hydroponic rooftop garden would be an excellent choice for you if you want to have a hassle free gardening experience.

All sorts of plants can easily be grown and cared for from your balcony. We often see this in Mediterranean countries with many balconies growing wonder geranium plants and of course bougainvillea’s trailing down with their wonderful purple and red flower bracts shining in the sun.

Tomatoes and excellent choice.

Of course, tomatoes would be an excellent choice to grow using hydroponic methods. Along with peppers and herbs. Importantly though it is always a sensible idea to check for any weight restrictions or building regulations before going ahead with your growing plans.

Newer buildings have special roof areas to carry extra weight. So it would be well worth checking! So, to start rooftop hydroponic gardening. Then, you should decide on what plants or herbs you want to grow and how many of each.

In a rooftop garden, containers are where you can showcase your personal flair, but that doesn’t mean you have to spend a fortune on them—although you certainly could. When selecting the size of your rooftop containers, weight and material should also be taken into consideration in addition to aesthetics.

Weight is paramount

Whatever plants you choose, you’ll need containers big enough for their roots! But if you’re concerned about how much weight your rooftop can sustain, the weight of the container becomes a problem. Keep in mind that when you water the plants, the pots get extra heavier. Clay, terra cotta, and cement are examples of conventional materials that can be fairly weighty.
For a novice gardener, the soil is frequently the least interesting component, but it is the most crucial one. Healthy plants grow on good soil, which means less work for you. You will benefit from being able to bring in soil if you are growing in raised beds and containers rather than having to use what is already on the ground. The amount of soil required will vary, so do your study before planting your options.

Remember when Plant Growing on your roofs, that weight is of the upmost importance. including calculating additional weight for when it snows or at least rains.

Once you decide the number of plants you want to grow, you need to get plastic containers or plastic tubes to grow your vegetables or herbs. Next, you need to cut holes in them to place your potted plants properly. You can either buy seedlings from a reputable garden centre or grow your own seedlings. Perhaps on your windowsill! Once you have your seedlings, take them out of their pots and rinse the roots to remove the dirt.

After washing them properly, you need to place your plants in some sort of growing medium, such as rockwool, vermiculite, or any other suitable growing substrate, and then feed them with a nutrient solution to make them grow.

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Effective Germination

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Effective Germination

Effective Germination

Of course, there are two main ways of producing new plants with differing variations. We can either use seed germination or take cuttings. Taking cuttings ensures that the mother plant is correctly cloned. Importantly, though, the key part of any germination method is having the correct conditions for either propagation or germination. Of course, to produce new and healthy plants,

The “radicle” is the first part of seed germination to develop. So, it is the embryonic root that will grow downward. This is the first thing that I can see when germinating my large avocado seeds in water. I actually grow these in a small glass of water that suspends the large seed halfway out of the top of the glass. Of course, this ensures that I can keep an eye on germination. So, the radicle is the first thing, followed by the real tap root. I then pot them up, and they turn into a nice houseplant. This is a great way to teach young people about growing things!

Next development

The next thing to start growing is the “hypocotyl” which is the embryonic axis that forms the seedling leaves, or “cotyledons.” In the case of my avocado, this can take a few weeks. Eventually the true leaves will appear, and the plant will grow away to reach the light source.

Typically, all seeds will eventually burst into life when the correct conditions are met. Good germination rates can be aided with experience from the gardener. For example, many seeds are hard-coated. This protects the seeds until the correct moisture levels are met. So, the grower can help this happen by putting the seed on a damp cloth or piece of tissue paper for the night. So, one good example of this is sweet peas.

Sweet peas must be soaked before planting in a warm seed tray with a potting mix or by using an hydroponic system.

new root of an Avocado seed
© Can Stock Photo / Barriolo82

Seeds can be helped along

Of course, in hydroponics, there are more up-to-date methods before sowing your valuable seeds. Many growers will soak hard-shelled seeds in a solution of water that includes a rooting stimulator. Such a product comes to mind as “Katana Roots.” Secondly, once the roots and sprouts appear, a specific plant food can be administered to aid instant growth. One that comes to mind is sold as “Shogun Start,” which contains very low levels of micronutrients that a young plant requires when first starting out.

You may have learned as a child that sprouting an avocado seed is simple. Purchase an avocado, savour its lush, green flesh, and then clean the seed. The top and bottom ends of the seed should be kept in mind. Next, insert many toothpicks into the seed’s equator and set the toothpicks on a glass of water so that the seed’s bottom inch is submerged.

You may have to be patent as rooting can sometimes take a while.

Since the seedling will still be indoors at this point, you can plant it anytime of the year.


Place the glass in a warm location away from direct sunshine, adding water as necessary to maintain the water level at the bottom inch of the seed. A seedling emerges after the development of its roots.

Of course, you should germinate your seeds in a warm and moist environment where possible. Most keen growers will purchase an electric propagator. These are not all that expensive these days and will ensure a good rate of success. You will still need to soak any hard seeds overnight, though. Most seeds, however, will germinate easily if soaked between damp tissue paper before planting.

In hydroponics many growers will use coco coir as a growing medium and rockwool cubes to plant on the germinated seeds in. These are accepted methods in many different fields of gardening these days.


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Poultry Food from Hydroponics

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Poultry Food from Hydroponics

Poultry Food from Hydroponics

So I first read about this idea in a well-known Indian hydroponics blog! As a keeper of poultry, I found the story very interesting. Firstly, I am lucky enough to have a large lawn. This, of course, is more than enough greens for my chickens. When they eat the grass and clover, I simply move the coop to a fresh, green area. I am fortunate enough to use the “Eglu” chicken coops.

However, many chicken keepers only have the same run for their birds. So, this is soon eaten away, and the birds are usually scratching on the bare earth or any substance that the owner puts down as bedding. Of course, straw or wood chips of some sort. Poultry, like any other bird, thrives on greens of most kinds.

Greens are organic and full of protein!

Many poultry keepers will feed their birds green kitchen scraps, which is fine! However, it is possible to grow your chicken’s green feed hydroponically and at an inexpensive price. Feeding your chickens hydroponically grown greens will produce better quality eggs with nice, bright yellow yolks.

Hydroponic fodder is rich in protein, beta-carotene, trace elements, and enzymes. Sprouts can be easily grown in trays. In fact, about 2 kg of seeds can produce around 10 kg of edible chicken fodder. Plastic trays are available from your local hydroponics store. These trays come in many sizes. from the normal seed tray size to large trays for holding a number of plant pots. These can be used for growing the sprouting seeds.

chicken eating fresh greens
© Can Stock Photo / blackboard1965

Seeds suitable for sprouting include mung, alfalfa, and mustard. Different types of lentils and mung seeds are also good choices. The seeds are simply spread with water onto a layer of tissue paper. The seeds are then spread on top of the wet tissue and placed in a light, warm place. For continuity, this should be spread out over a period of time. A greenhouse would be a perfect growing environment. However, a window sill on a south or east window would be fine.

These sprouting systems will be mature in a little over a week. Importantly, this is also a good winter treat for your chickens, as well as a summer supplement.

Many plant growers and gardeners I know are also avid poultry keepers. The two go hand in hand. So it may just be worth thinking about growing some nutritious seeds hydroponically for your precious egg providers.

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Lumatek Zeus Pro Lighting

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Lumatek Zeus Pro Lighting

6 reasons to use LED lights in your greenhouse

  1. Providing supplemental lighting for plants: LED lights can be used to provide additional light to plants in a greenhouse, particularly during the winter months when natural light levels are lower. This can help promote healthy plant growth and flowering.
  2. Controlling temperature: LED lights can be used to heat a greenhouse during cold weather, helping to maintain optimal growing conditions for plants.
  3. Improving plant growth and yield: LED lights can be used to improve the growth and yield of certain crops by providing the specific wavelengths of light that they need for optimal growth.
  4. Reducing energy consumption: LED lights are highly energy efficient and can help reduce the energy costs of operating a greenhouse.
  5. Improving the appearance of the greenhouse: LED lights can be used to create a visually appealing environment in the greenhouse, enhancing the overall aesthetic of the space.
  6. Improving safety: LED lights can help improve safety in the greenhouse by providing bright, consistent lighting that makes it easier to navigate the space and identify any potential hazards.

Lumatek Zeus Pro Lighting

Why use LED lighting

Well, in my opinion, the cost of running your lighting has got to be among the main reasons for updating your equipment. So as time goes by, there are thousands of inventors looking for new ways to improve things. In my opinion, this is the next step forward in growers’ lighting.

Indeed, there are many reports from manufacturers that say the LED lights can save as much as 40%. In comparison to the energy used by the old-fashioned lighting equipment that many people still use, Also, the growing area that is lit up using LED will, of course, generate a higher yield per kWh. My own experience is that a friend who is a keen grower of all sorts of plants had a surplus LED light unit. He offered the light at a good price, and so I snapped his hand off. The unit is just plug-and-play and simple to install.

Used LED for the first time

Last winter was the first time that I used the new LED lights in my citrus plants overwintering greenhouse. So, the light emitted from the LEDs was a very bright white light. My older lights were, of course, orange-coloured. Combined with a good greenhouse heater, my plants overwintered perfectly. Consequently, I added two hours of daylight at each end of the day. So giving my lemons and oranges the extra daylight they require.

My plants are put out in the summer, and I then grow my tomatoes and peppers. Incidentally, my friend had bought a new Lumatek LED light unit, which is rated at a tremendous 60,000 hours. I was happy to buy his old LED unit for my first step into LED growing. However, he upgraded to the Lumatek, giving him a 5 year warranty.

Lumatek LED, s highly efficient

One of the first things I noticed about LED lighting was how cool they ran at. The Lumatek also operates at high efficiency with much less wattage. That means less heat release, lower gardening costs (which keeps the wife happy), and lower electric bills.

My friend is certainly impressed with his Lumatek Zeus Pro Led lighting setup. giving Scott, my friend, more powerful grow lights. Another added advantage of Lumatek LED lights is that they can be dimmed. Accordingly, adjust the PPF level. Naturally, to suit the crop and the growth stages. This is without changing or losing efficiency.


Flexible light intensity;

Lumatek LEDs can be turned down to change the PPF level to fit the crop and its growth stage. This doesn’t change how the spectral power is distributed or make them less effective. Of course, LED lighting is the future and is already in the process of overtaking the HPS lighting market. Because of the way that the multiple light strips are designed, the diodes are spread right across the canopy. This spreads out the light, giving it an almost perfect footprint.

So, the type of lighting that the Zeus product emits is as close as possible to natural sunlight. Of course, something that’s most beneficial to your plants Finally, once the Lumatek LEDs are up and running, you won’t ever have to change a lamp again. This should save you more than £1000 per year!

These lights are available from many hydroponic stores online, and callers are welcome.

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Which Tomatoes for Hydroponics !

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Which Tomatoes for Hydroponics !

Which Tomatoes for Hydroponics !

I must confess that tomatoes are probably the best and most rewarding things that you can grow. Also, they are a great choice for hydronic gardeners as well as conventional growers. Because of this, many growers think that they would do best in a hydroponic environment. Compared to being in a greenhouse or outside, I have tried all methods! This year, I grew in my usual greenhouse and have had mixed results.

I use two plastic water tanks to supply the pots, which are filled with a mixture of clay pebbles and coco peat made by Canna. So, you can buy this at your local hydrostore. However, I’ve discovered that it’s now available pre-mixed and ready to use. I will probably get this for the next growing season.

One of the most important vegetables in the world is the tomato.

Many of our favourite dishes use tomatoes, a tasty produce that is also healthy. Who eats French fries without ketchup? Everything Italian appears to have a tomato base. Red, plump, vine-ripened, and spotless tomatoes are most desirable. Hydroponics is an intriguing, non-traditional method of growing tomatoes with these characteristics.

Numerous fruits and vegetables can be grown with hydroponics very effectively and efficiently. It entails raising them in water that has critical plant nutrients dissolved in it, known as a nutrient solution. You can carry out this either with or without an artificial medium. Sand, gravel, rockwool, peat, sawdust, and vermiculite are some examples of these mediums. Greenhouses used in hydroponic systems are enclosed, temperature-controlled, and help prevent pest infestations.

One important thing to remember is that when choosing the type of tomatoes to grow using the hydroponics method,.

Then, you should only choose the “indeterminate” varieties of tomatoes. These grow like vines and can be trained to climb a cane. The flowers that produce the tomatoes will sprout in-between the leaf axils. This can be best seen in this excellent video:

apart from tying them to the canes as they grow. Then the only thing to do is to pinch out any growth that appears to be sprouting on the joints of the branches and main stem. These tomatoes are said to be “truss varieties” because they grow on trusses.

The efficient use of fertilisers and water intake, extremely high yields, lack of seasonality, and pest removal are benefits of hydroponically cultivating tomatoes. By not growing them in soil, factors like pH, salinity, infections, or poor drainage are eliminated that can impede growth. The farmer has complete control over the environment, ensuring that the tomatoes are growing in the best possible conditions. These tomatoes can also be planted all year long to always have fresh, vine-ripened tomatoes available.

Hydroponically cultivating tomatoes has a few drawbacks

Energy and capital inputs are very high. Additionally, success requires above-average managerial abilities. Hydroponics is only used for high-value crops like tomatoes due to these drawbacks.

To properly grow tomatoes hydroponically, a variety of outside elements must be managed. Light, temperature, humidity, and air flow are a few of these. Fertility, solution pH, and pruning are additional factors. These are all essential to the plants’ success and require precise, cautious management to function properly.

As the plant grows upward, you will be rewarded with bunches of green and then red tomatoes. As the plant reaches the top of the growing area, nip out the growing tip. thus allowing the plant to stop growing and put all its energy into producing a good tomato crop on the lower stems.

Just a mention that the determinate tomato varieties grow as a bush and are more suited to other types of growing methods.

Which varieties!

Cluster (Truss) Tomatoes

Because of my age (now very old), these are my first-choice tomato varieties. These are the types that look like regular tomatoes or vine tomatoes. As I have said, they grow in trusses and attain the regular-looking size of tomatoes. Of course, most gardeners recognise the names of these varieties because of their regular good performance and dependability. Old favourites such as Alicante, Ailsa Craig, and Moneymaker are still very popular varieties. Also, I grow a few F1 hybrid varieties such as “Shirley” and “Cristal.”

However, if you want to save the seeds for your next year’s crop, F1 hybrid seeds will not come true to variety. Finally, I find that the truss tomatoes have an excellent taste and are perfect for the salad bowl. I also like to cook them for breakfast with some eggs and bacon; they taste delicious.

Beefsteak Tomatoes-

So, these are my second-preferred variety to grow. These can grow very large, and I must admit to showing off their size when we have visitors to the house! I first saw this type of tomato when I was a young man and went to Spain for my summer holidays. They were not available in the UK at the time and were considered exotics. They looked great sliced on a lovely Spanish salad.

Later, when I visited France, I bought some “Marmande” seeds in a local garden centre. These were not the giants, but they were very similar to the beefsteak tomatoes found in Spain. Beefsteaks can also come in F1 varieties, so beware of saving the seeds as they won’t come true. This year, I tried a variety called “Pink Brandywine.” So, when sliced, they just fit into a slice of bread. The flavour is good, and they are excellent sliced with a pinch of salt and some good “virgin olive oil” sprinkled on top.

I would try your one choice, though. Sometimes it is worth buying a couple of different plants from your local garden centre to find your one preference. Believe me, it is well worth the effort, and there is nothing tastier than your own homegrown tomatoes.

Plum Tomatoes Gain Popularity: Which Tomatoes for Hydroponics

Italy is becoming a very popular tourist attraction, and I believe it is the true home of the “plum tomatoes.” Again, these would only be found in canned tomatoes and would be inaccessible to UK gardeners. However, they are now widely available and are worth a try. They grow in the same way as a vine and are popular for their delicious flavour and plum-shaped fruit. I love to grow plum tomatoes and have been successful with the varieties “Roma” and ” San Marzano.”

So, both these varieties have grown very well next to my regular crops and the flavours are very tasty. I love these cooked with a little oil and two fried eggs on top for my breakfast. Fresh from my greenhouse then life could not be better!

Now there are many different colours!-Which Tomatoes for Hydroponics

During the past few years, “cherry tomatoes” have become a popular choice for salads and also for mixing with mainly Italian dishes. because they can be kept whole and remain in shape when cooked. However, I am not a fan of these, and so far I have not grown any. There are types that can be grown in a hanging basket and cascade from the basket called “Tumbler” . I may try these, but so far I’ve given them a miss.

Anyhow, to make the salad bowl more interesting, it is possible to buy tomatoes that have many different colours. Hence, orange-coloured varieties are now popular, including “Orange Santa” and “Orange Wellington.” Dark-coloured tomatoes don’t look right to me ! They have very dark skin, despite not being completely black. Varieties such as ” Black Opal” are available, but these are not for me.

A very nice-looking striped tomato

is available called “tigerella“. hence the red back ground and yellow stripes. I have grown these, but my family thought they looked sick! Not for everyone, but certainly unique.

Finally all your growing mediums and plant care materials are available online from all over the UK via the “Hydrostore” website.

Hydrostore-Friendly Bugs-ladybird

Friendly Bugs-ladybird

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Friendly Bugs-ladybirds

Friendly Bugs-ladybirds

I must confess that this is one of the great and important parts of gardening and growing plants in general. Knowing that many of these little blighters that try to ruin our crops have a natural enemy These little predatory insects have one aim in life! to set out and destroy the very pests that we dread every growing season. Knowing who your little friends are will help you protect your precious plants during the growing season.

If a strong enough army can be assembled of these little creatures, then chemicals can be kept to a minimum.

Friendly bugs aid a natural balance

Most gardeners and growers are also interested in the rest of the natural world. This goes without saying!

Nature has a wonderful way of balancing things out. Also known as “predator and prey,” So ensuring that things in nature can balance things out Well, this also applies to creatures that can help us in the battle against garden pests. Generally, neither will wipe the other out completely, and so the balance of life is maintained.

One species will outgrow the other and vice versa. The commonest of these is the well-known “ladybird.” The ladybird is also known as the “ladybug” in many parts of the world and is a member of the “coccinellid species”

Of course, the ladybird is a well-known devourer of the aphid and scale insect families. These common pests can make a mockery of our new and precious plants. Indeed, many members of the ladybug family will lay their eggs directly in a colony of aphids. thus providing instant food for the developing larvae as the eggs begin to hatch. The world-wide family of the ladybird is huge! with almost 6,000 different members of the species.

Spring ladybird collection days

I often take a glass container with a lid and go out collecting these little creatures on a warm spring day. Luckily, we have some rough land covered in scrub near our local railway line. This is a great place to look for ladybirds emerging from hibernation. The ladybirds frequent the warm, sun-drenched embankments and are easily collected.

On arriving home I let them make their own way out of the glass jar and let them forage for the dreaded aphids. of course to eat!

Here in the UK, we are blessed with about 46 species of ladybirds. all with differing patterns and body sizes. So, these little creatures come in many colours and spots. including red, yellow, orange, and black. When I was a kid, the most common ones were the ones that were red with black spots.

We always thought that the yellow and black ones were somehow poisonous. Hence, keeping well away from them and do not make contact with them. The red ladybird with seven black spots was the most communist, and it’s still around in 2021.

Harlequin ladybird now the most common in the UK-Friendly Bugs-ladybirds

However, a relatively new type of ladybird is now taking over as the number one contender. Known as the “harlequin ladybird,” Unfortunately, the harlequin is killing other popular species. I must admit that there has been an increase in the so called poisonous ladybugs of my childhood.

This particular type of ladybird comes in different disguises. They can be black with red spots to orange with white spots. Fortunately, they all have the same aim in life, which is, of course, to find and eat aphids and their associates.

Incredibly, there is a blue-coloured ladybug! This is known as the “steel-blue ladybird” and comes from Australia and New Zealand. This species is also a voracious eater of scale insects and aphid populations. Particularly beneficial to citrus growers, assisting with the common “scale insect” infections of the fruit crop.

I have seen what I thought was a blue ladybird. However, it was more likely to have been a “blue mint beetle,” which is very similar in size to a ladybird but feed on green vegetation and not aphids.

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Botrytis A Quick Look!

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Botrytis A Quick Look!

Botrytis A Quick Look!

Most gardeners and growers cringe at the first sight of the dreaded “grey mould,” known as Botrytis cinerea. I do find that the fungus is synonymous with damp, warm conditions. Certain crops are more susceptible than others. Strawberries are the crop that comes to mind, but the dreaded fungus can become a nightmare for all growers. So, this fungus is what’s known as a “necrotrophic” . Of course, that means that the fungus kills the host to get all the nutrients that it needs.

Botrytis will also affect well-known plants grown indoors. attacking weak plants and dying flowers. Importantly, this fungus plays a big part in the natural growth cycle of nature. So, helping to form an important part of the natural breakdown of natural substances. Unfortunately, when it affects your precious plants, it can become a real pest problem.

6 signs of Botrytis

Botrytis, also known as grey mold, is a fungal disease that can affect a wide range of plants, including flowers, vegetables, and fruit trees. Some signs of botrytis infection include:

  1. Brown or gray patches on leaves, stems, or flowers. These patches are often fuzzy or cobweb-like in appearance and may spread rapidly.
  2. Wilting or drooping of affected plants.
  3. Black or brown lesions on the stems or fruit of plants.
  4. Shriveled, rotting, or decayed areas on the plant tissue.
  5. The presence of dark, spores on the affected plant tissue.
  6. A musty or moldy smell emanating from the affected plants.

If you suspect that your plants may be infected with botrytis, it is important to take action to control the spread of the disease. This may involve removing and destroying infected plant tissue, applying fungicides, and practicing good cultural control measures such as avoiding overhead watering and improving air circulation around the plants.

In my experience, the first signs can be seen on your plants in a damp, wet summer! with plenty of sun and rain. Unfortunately, this summer (2021) is such a year. The only thing you can do is keep an eye on your crop for the first signs of the dreaded dark spots.

The plant tissue, usually the leaves, will become darker and softer due to the death of the host plant’s leaves or flowers. Consequently, a furry grey mould will quickly develop on these dark spots.

Spores develop in the air

Unfortunately, the mold is spread by airborne spores. so affecting plants when the weather starts to warm up in the spring. Structures called condias are usually formed from previous years’ infected plants. These are airborne and transported through the air so coming into contact with the host plant’s leaves and other parts of the plant.

If you find that you have the start of an infection, then get rid of the plant parts that are infected. The infected plant parts should be burned if possible or taken as far away as possible for disposal.

I must say, though, that it is very hard to get rid of an infection and that losses are almost certain. This is because the mould sends out clouds of spores onto nearby plants when it is moved. As time passes, the infection spreads.

There are many preparations that claim to prevent botrytis attacks. One that I think is worth trying is prevention by using “BAC foliar spray” on your plants to try and help prevent an attack.

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Iron Deficiency in Plants

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Iron Deficiency in Plants

Iron Deficiency in Plants

Of course iron deficiency can effect many types of plants. In the past it has been common in my tomato plants. So, the most helpful sign of this condition is called “leaf chlorosis”. This is easy to spot as the leaves will turn yellow and the leaves veins will remain green.

Starting on the new leaves that emerge the symptoms then start to spread to the older leaves and they begin to turn a yellow colour. This can then turn to the leaves dropping off all together. Coupled with poor growth of the plant. Strangely the condition is not caused by a lack of iron in the soils, but the failure of the plant to take it up. Hence due to the following reasons.

Iron chlorosis in plants is normally cause by one of four reasons.

Your soils Ph is too high

This is relatively easy to rectify. you can purchase a simple PH tester kit online. Soil Ph levels of 7 or above will restrict your plant from getting the iron available to tin the soil. Vitalink “Ph Down” is a great product for lowering the Ph and helping your plant to take up the required iron levels.

Too heavy clay soil

Most gardeners know all about the benefits of a clay soil. However some areas have realy heavy clay soil deposits. Although rich in minerals and vitamins then realy heavy clay make it difficult to be absorbed by plants. Including iron !

Living and gardening here in West Yorkshire UK has always brought its problems with clay soil. Gardens on new build sites very often have a sprinkling of top soil places directly on top of a thick layer of clay. So, making a nice garden virtually impossible without tons of organic material. Hence the addition of organic matter will be beneficial for the plants to take up iron. Clay soils are probably the richest soils once cultivated with added compost.

Very damp and wet soil

Of course this follows on from the last problem. Because clay soils are also wet and damp soils. Of course until well cultivated and free draining. Wet and damp soils are easy and often compacted. making it difficult once again for the plant to take up iron. So, if your garden is permanently compacted then there are few options available. Your plants can be foliar sprayed, or you can use a good soil supplement and even use the addition of chelated iron. These treatments can help plants take up the iron levels that they require.

Too much phosphorous in the soil

Strangely, too much phosphorous can prevent the intake of iron by the plant. Studying this then the main reason for this is the over use fertilizers containing phosphorous. So, the simple answer would be to use a fertilizer with lower amounts of phosphorous to balance the soils out and allow the plant to take up the iron that is required.

However it must be stressed that phosphorous is extremely import to plant growth and development. Of course for indoor growing then products are available to maintain the correct balance of nutrients in your plants. All are available online at Hydrostore West Yorkshire.

LED Lighting for a better heat control

August Heat Wave Expected

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August Heat Wave Expected

August Heat Wave Expected

So, I am sure that most people including growers and regular gardeners look forward to long sunny summer days. Of course its time to relax in the garden with your friends and family over a glass of beer or two. Possibly just doing some watering chores and making sure the greenhouse is well ventilated. However according to the weather forecast things are going to hot up in the August of 2021 here in the UK.

So, we have recently witnessed a good week of hot weather and we all know how uncomfortable it can be for us mere mortals. Spare a thought for the plants grown indoors. Good growing conditions require a temperature in the region of 28c! Hence to produce a good crop. However, things can become more unstable if the temperature reaches the 30C+ range outside. Our British homes are built to keep the cold out and the heat in with plenty of insulation. Unfortunately, during heat waves then the homes become stuffy and overheated. Thus making it difficult to sleep on sultry evenings.

Coincidently, plants feel the heat too and often stress out ending in a poor crop of fruit or flowers. The main problem in hot weather is of course the heat given off by the grow room lights. So, many people have their lights fitted with an adjustable ballast. Enabling the heat produced by the lights to be reduced. The ballast wattage can be turned down via its settings to reduce the amount of heat produced by the bulbs.

Importantly, the Lumatek 600w digital ballast provides a stable precise voltage to the lamp and is available online from your local Hydrostore.

LED to the rescue!

Of course the “rescue ship on the horizon! is going to be the LED lighting units. These units although expensive at the moment give off no heat. Therefore giving the grower more control over temperature. Smaller growers are already embracing this marvellous technology. Indeed I recently bought an LED lighting unit from a guy who claims to have had a double delivery. The unit was a bargain and was installed to give my citrus trees extended day light hours through Autumn to Spring. Thus enabling my citrus trees to carry on growing until they were put outside for the summer months.

The temperature was controlled by a greenhouse fan heater and all worked very well. As I have said these LED lighting units are more expensive to buy in the first place! However they pay for themselves because they actually use between 50 and 70% less electricity than the more traditional HPS bulb system.

Good Extraction System also helps

Of course most indoor growing set ups are fitted out with some sort of extraction system. These systems change the air in the growing room replacing warm air with cooler air. So, this combined with a control unit such as a GSE Controller will automate the process. So, as the temperature rises from outside conditions the system will start to work over time to keep the conditions more stable and the plants happier.

An extraction system reduces heat build up by drawing in cool air and then transferring warm air out of the growing area via ducting and a carbon filter. If you introduce a fan controller with temperature probe, your extraction system will automatically react to the temperature you set it too which also allows you to control you grow rooms temperature. Most plants hate to grow in a stuffy overheated environment and can cause growing restrictions leading to a poor quality crop of whatever you are growing.

So with the correct equipment in use then all should be well and the best results will be achieved.