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Lumatek Zeus Pro Lighting

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Lumatek Zeus Pro Lighting

6 reasons to use LED lights in your greenhouse

  1. Providing supplemental lighting for plants: LED lights can be used to provide additional light to plants in a greenhouse, particularly during the winter months when natural light levels are lower. This can help promote healthy plant growth and flowering.
  2. Controlling temperature: LED lights can be used to heat a greenhouse during cold weather, helping to maintain optimal growing conditions for plants.
  3. Improving plant growth and yield: LED lights can be used to improve the growth and yield of certain crops by providing the specific wavelengths of light that they need for optimal growth.
  4. Reducing energy consumption: LED lights are highly energy efficient and can help reduce the energy costs of operating a greenhouse.
  5. Improving the appearance of the greenhouse: LED lights can be used to create a visually appealing environment in the greenhouse, enhancing the overall aesthetic of the space.
  6. Improving safety: LED lights can help improve safety in the greenhouse by providing bright, consistent lighting that makes it easier to navigate the space and identify any potential hazards.

Lumatek Zeus Pro Lighting

Why use LED lighting

Well, in my opinion, the cost of running your lighting has got to be among the main reasons for updating your equipment. So as time goes by, there are thousands of inventors looking for new ways to improve things. In my opinion, this is the next step forward in growers’ lighting.

Indeed, there are many reports from manufacturers that say the LED lights can save as much as 40%. In comparison to the energy used by the old-fashioned lighting equipment that many people still use, Also, the growing area that is lit up using LED will, of course, generate a higher yield per kWh. My own experience is that a friend who is a keen grower of all sorts of plants had a surplus LED light unit. He offered the light at a good price, and so I snapped his hand off. The unit is just plug-and-play and simple to install.

Used LED for the first time

Last winter was the first time that I used the new LED lights in my citrus plants overwintering greenhouse. So, the light emitted from the LEDs was a very bright white light. My older lights were, of course, orange-coloured. Combined with a good greenhouse heater, my plants overwintered perfectly. Consequently, I added two hours of daylight at each end of the day. So giving my lemons and oranges the extra daylight they require.

My plants are put out in the summer, and I then grow my tomatoes and peppers. Incidentally, my friend had bought a new Lumatek LED light unit, which is rated at a tremendous 60,000 hours. I was happy to buy his old LED unit for my first step into LED growing. However, he upgraded to the Lumatek, giving him a 5 year warranty.

Lumatek LED, s highly efficient

One of the first things I noticed about LED lighting was how cool they ran at. The Lumatek also operates at high efficiency with much less wattage. That means less heat release, lower gardening costs (which keeps the wife happy), and lower electric bills.

My friend is certainly impressed with his Lumatek Zeus Pro Led lighting setup. giving Scott, my friend, more powerful grow lights. Another added advantage of Lumatek LED lights is that they can be dimmed. Accordingly, adjust the PPF level. Naturally, to suit the crop and the growth stages. This is without changing or losing efficiency.


Flexible light intensity;

Lumatek LEDs can be turned down to change the PPF level to fit the crop and its growth stage. This doesn’t change how the spectral power is distributed or make them less effective. Of course, LED lighting is the future and is already in the process of overtaking the HPS lighting market. Because of the way that the multiple light strips are designed, the diodes are spread right across the canopy. This spreads out the light, giving it an almost perfect footprint.

So, the type of lighting that the Zeus product emits is as close as possible to natural sunlight. Of course, something that’s most beneficial to your plants Finally, once the Lumatek LEDs are up and running, you won’t ever have to change a lamp again. This should save you more than £1000 per year!

These lights are available from many hydroponic stores online, and callers are welcome.

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Which Tomatoes for Hydroponics !

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Which Tomatoes for Hydroponics !

Which Tomatoes for Hydroponics !

I must confess that tomatoes are probably the best and most rewarding things that you can grow. Also, they are a great choice for hydronic gardeners as well as conventional growers. Because of this, many growers think that they would do best in a hydroponic environment. Compared to being in a greenhouse or outside, I have tried all methods! This year, I grew in my usual greenhouse and have had mixed results.

I use two plastic water tanks to supply the pots, which are filled with a mixture of clay pebbles and coco peat made by Canna. So, you can buy this at your local hydrostore. However, I’ve discovered that it’s now available pre-mixed and ready to use. I will probably get this for the next growing season.

One of the most important vegetables in the world is the tomato.

Many of our favourite dishes use tomatoes, a tasty produce that is also healthy. Who eats French fries without ketchup? Everything Italian appears to have a tomato base. Red, plump, vine-ripened, and spotless tomatoes are most desirable. Hydroponics is an intriguing, non-traditional method of growing tomatoes with these characteristics.

Numerous fruits and vegetables can be grown with hydroponics very effectively and efficiently. It entails raising them in water that has critical plant nutrients dissolved in it, known as a nutrient solution. You can carry out this either with or without an artificial medium. Sand, gravel, rockwool, peat, sawdust, and vermiculite are some examples of these mediums. Greenhouses used in hydroponic systems are enclosed, temperature-controlled, and help prevent pest infestations.

One important thing to remember is that when choosing the type of tomatoes to grow using the hydroponics method,.

Then, you should only choose the “indeterminate” varieties of tomatoes. These grow like vines and can be trained to climb a cane. The flowers that produce the tomatoes will sprout in-between the leaf axils. This can be best seen in this excellent video:

apart from tying them to the canes as they grow. Then the only thing to do is to pinch out any growth that appears to be sprouting on the joints of the branches and main stem. These tomatoes are said to be “truss varieties” because they grow on trusses.

The efficient use of fertilisers and water intake, extremely high yields, lack of seasonality, and pest removal are benefits of hydroponically cultivating tomatoes. By not growing them in soil, factors like pH, salinity, infections, or poor drainage are eliminated that can impede growth. The farmer has complete control over the environment, ensuring that the tomatoes are growing in the best possible conditions. These tomatoes can also be planted all year long to always have fresh, vine-ripened tomatoes available.

Hydroponically cultivating tomatoes has a few drawbacks

Energy and capital inputs are very high. Additionally, success requires above-average managerial abilities. Hydroponics is only used for high-value crops like tomatoes due to these drawbacks.

To properly grow tomatoes hydroponically, a variety of outside elements must be managed. Light, temperature, humidity, and air flow are a few of these. Fertility, solution pH, and pruning are additional factors. These are all essential to the plants’ success and require precise, cautious management to function properly.

As the plant grows upward, you will be rewarded with bunches of green and then red tomatoes. As the plant reaches the top of the growing area, nip out the growing tip. thus allowing the plant to stop growing and put all its energy into producing a good tomato crop on the lower stems.

Just a mention that the determinate tomato varieties grow as a bush and are more suited to other types of growing methods.

Which varieties!

Cluster (Truss) Tomatoes

Because of my age (now very old), these are my first-choice tomato varieties. These are the types that look like regular tomatoes or vine tomatoes. As I have said, they grow in trusses and attain the regular-looking size of tomatoes. Of course, most gardeners recognise the names of these varieties because of their regular good performance and dependability. Old favourites such as Alicante, Ailsa Craig, and Moneymaker are still very popular varieties. Also, I grow a few F1 hybrid varieties such as “Shirley” and “Cristal.”

However, if you want to save the seeds for your next year’s crop, F1 hybrid seeds will not come true to variety. Finally, I find that the truss tomatoes have an excellent taste and are perfect for the salad bowl. I also like to cook them for breakfast with some eggs and bacon; they taste delicious.

Beefsteak Tomatoes-

So, these are my second-preferred variety to grow. These can grow very large, and I must admit to showing off their size when we have visitors to the house! I first saw this type of tomato when I was a young man and went to Spain for my summer holidays. They were not available in the UK at the time and were considered exotics. They looked great sliced on a lovely Spanish salad.

Later, when I visited France, I bought some “Marmande” seeds in a local garden centre. These were not the giants, but they were very similar to the beefsteak tomatoes found in Spain. Beefsteaks can also come in F1 varieties, so beware of saving the seeds as they won’t come true. This year, I tried a variety called “Pink Brandywine.” So, when sliced, they just fit into a slice of bread. The flavour is good, and they are excellent sliced with a pinch of salt and some good “virgin olive oil” sprinkled on top.

I would try your one choice, though. Sometimes it is worth buying a couple of different plants from your local garden centre to find your one preference. Believe me, it is well worth the effort, and there is nothing tastier than your own homegrown tomatoes.

Plum Tomatoes Gain Popularity: Which Tomatoes for Hydroponics

Italy is becoming a very popular tourist attraction, and I believe it is the true home of the “plum tomatoes.” Again, these would only be found in canned tomatoes and would be inaccessible to UK gardeners. However, they are now widely available and are worth a try. They grow in the same way as a vine and are popular for their delicious flavour and plum-shaped fruit. I love to grow plum tomatoes and have been successful with the varieties “Roma” and ” San Marzano.”

So, both these varieties have grown very well next to my regular crops and the flavours are very tasty. I love these cooked with a little oil and two fried eggs on top for my breakfast. Fresh from my greenhouse then life could not be better!

Now there are many different colours!-Which Tomatoes for Hydroponics

During the past few years, “cherry tomatoes” have become a popular choice for salads and also for mixing with mainly Italian dishes. because they can be kept whole and remain in shape when cooked. However, I am not a fan of these, and so far I have not grown any. There are types that can be grown in a hanging basket and cascade from the basket called “Tumbler” . I may try these, but so far I’ve given them a miss.

Anyhow, to make the salad bowl more interesting, it is possible to buy tomatoes that have many different colours. Hence, orange-coloured varieties are now popular, including “Orange Santa” and “Orange Wellington.” Dark-coloured tomatoes don’t look right to me ! They have very dark skin, despite not being completely black. Varieties such as ” Black Opal” are available, but these are not for me.

A very nice-looking striped tomato

is available called “tigerella“. hence the red back ground and yellow stripes. I have grown these, but my family thought they looked sick! Not for everyone, but certainly unique.

Finally all your growing mediums and plant care materials are available online from all over the UK via the “Hydrostore” website.

Hydrostore-Friendly Bugs-ladybird

Friendly Bugs-ladybird

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Friendly Bugs-ladybirds

Friendly Bugs-ladybirds

I must confess that this is one of the great and important parts of gardening and growing plants in general. Knowing that many of these little blighters that try to ruin our crops have a natural enemy These little predatory insects have one aim in life! to set out and destroy the very pests that we dread every growing season. Knowing who your little friends are will help you protect your precious plants during the growing season.

If a strong enough army can be assembled of these little creatures, then chemicals can be kept to a minimum.

Friendly bugs aid a natural balance

Most gardeners and growers are also interested in the rest of the natural world. This goes without saying!

Nature has a wonderful way of balancing things out. Also known as “predator and prey,” So ensuring that things in nature can balance things out Well, this also applies to creatures that can help us in the battle against garden pests. Generally, neither will wipe the other out completely, and so the balance of life is maintained.

One species will outgrow the other and vice versa. The commonest of these is the well-known “ladybird.” The ladybird is also known as the “ladybug” in many parts of the world and is a member of the “coccinellid species”

Of course, the ladybird is a well-known devourer of the aphid and scale insect families. These common pests can make a mockery of our new and precious plants. Indeed, many members of the ladybug family will lay their eggs directly in a colony of aphids. thus providing instant food for the developing larvae as the eggs begin to hatch. The world-wide family of the ladybird is huge! with almost 6,000 different members of the species.

Spring ladybird collection days

I often take a glass container with a lid and go out collecting these little creatures on a warm spring day. Luckily, we have some rough land covered in scrub near our local railway line. This is a great place to look for ladybirds emerging from hibernation. The ladybirds frequent the warm, sun-drenched embankments and are easily collected.

On arriving home I let them make their own way out of the glass jar and let them forage for the dreaded aphids. of course to eat!

Here in the UK, we are blessed with about 46 species of ladybirds. all with differing patterns and body sizes. So, these little creatures come in many colours and spots. including red, yellow, orange, and black. When I was a kid, the most common ones were the ones that were red with black spots.

We always thought that the yellow and black ones were somehow poisonous. Hence, keeping well away from them and do not make contact with them. The red ladybird with seven black spots was the most communist, and it’s still around in 2021.

Harlequin ladybird now the most common in the UK-Friendly Bugs-ladybirds

However, a relatively new type of ladybird is now taking over as the number one contender. Known as the “harlequin ladybird,” Unfortunately, the harlequin is killing other popular species. I must admit that there has been an increase in the so called poisonous ladybugs of my childhood.

This particular type of ladybird comes in different disguises. They can be black with red spots to orange with white spots. Fortunately, they all have the same aim in life, which is, of course, to find and eat aphids and their associates.

Incredibly, there is a blue-coloured ladybug! This is known as the “steel-blue ladybird” and comes from Australia and New Zealand. This species is also a voracious eater of scale insects and aphid populations. Particularly beneficial to citrus growers, assisting with the common “scale insect” infections of the fruit crop.

I have seen what I thought was a blue ladybird. However, it was more likely to have been a “blue mint beetle,” which is very similar in size to a ladybird but feed on green vegetation and not aphids.

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Botrytis A Quick Look!

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Botrytis A Quick Look!

Botrytis A Quick Look!

Most gardeners and growers cringe at the first sight of the dreaded “grey mould,” known as Botrytis cinerea. I do find that the fungus is synonymous with damp, warm conditions. Certain crops are more susceptible than others. Strawberries are the crop that comes to mind, but the dreaded fungus can become a nightmare for all growers. So, this fungus is what’s known as a “necrotrophic” . Of course, that means that the fungus kills the host to get all the nutrients that it needs.

Botrytis will also affect well-known plants grown indoors. attacking weak plants and dying flowers. Importantly, this fungus plays a big part in the natural growth cycle of nature. So, helping to form an important part of the natural breakdown of natural substances. Unfortunately, when it affects your precious plants, it can become a real pest problem.

6 signs of Botrytis

Botrytis, also known as grey mold, is a fungal disease that can affect a wide range of plants, including flowers, vegetables, and fruit trees. Some signs of botrytis infection include:

  1. Brown or gray patches on leaves, stems, or flowers. These patches are often fuzzy or cobweb-like in appearance and may spread rapidly.
  2. Wilting or drooping of affected plants.
  3. Black or brown lesions on the stems or fruit of plants.
  4. Shriveled, rotting, or decayed areas on the plant tissue.
  5. The presence of dark, spores on the affected plant tissue.
  6. A musty or moldy smell emanating from the affected plants.

If you suspect that your plants may be infected with botrytis, it is important to take action to control the spread of the disease. This may involve removing and destroying infected plant tissue, applying fungicides, and practicing good cultural control measures such as avoiding overhead watering and improving air circulation around the plants.

In my experience, the first signs can be seen on your plants in a damp, wet summer! with plenty of sun and rain. Unfortunately, this summer (2021) is such a year. The only thing you can do is keep an eye on your crop for the first signs of the dreaded dark spots.

The plant tissue, usually the leaves, will become darker and softer due to the death of the host plant’s leaves or flowers. Consequently, a furry grey mould will quickly develop on these dark spots.

Spores develop in the air

Unfortunately, the mold is spread by airborne spores. so affecting plants when the weather starts to warm up in the spring. Structures called condias are usually formed from previous years’ infected plants. These are airborne and transported through the air so coming into contact with the host plant’s leaves and other parts of the plant.

If you find that you have the start of an infection, then get rid of the plant parts that are infected. The infected plant parts should be burned if possible or taken as far away as possible for disposal.

I must say, though, that it is very hard to get rid of an infection and that losses are almost certain. This is because the mould sends out clouds of spores onto nearby plants when it is moved. As time passes, the infection spreads.

There are many preparations that claim to prevent botrytis attacks. One that I think is worth trying is prevention by using “BAC foliar spray” on your plants to try and help prevent an attack.

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Iron Deficiency in Plants

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Iron Deficiency in Plants

Iron Deficiency in Plants

Of course iron deficiency can effect many types of plants. In the past it has been common in my tomato plants. So, the most helpful sign of this condition is called “leaf chlorosis”. This is easy to spot as the leaves will turn yellow and the leaves veins will remain green.

Starting on the new leaves that emerge the symptoms then start to spread to the older leaves and they begin to turn a yellow colour. This can then turn to the leaves dropping off all together. Coupled with poor growth of the plant. Strangely the condition is not caused by a lack of iron in the soils, but the failure of the plant to take it up. Hence due to the following reasons.

Iron chlorosis in plants is normally cause by one of four reasons.

Your soils Ph is too high

This is relatively easy to rectify. you can purchase a simple PH tester kit online. Soil Ph levels of 7 or above will restrict your plant from getting the iron available to tin the soil. Vitalink “Ph Down” is a great product for lowering the Ph and helping your plant to take up the required iron levels.

Too heavy clay soil

Most gardeners know all about the benefits of a clay soil. However some areas have realy heavy clay soil deposits. Although rich in minerals and vitamins then realy heavy clay make it difficult to be absorbed by plants. Including iron !

Living and gardening here in West Yorkshire UK has always brought its problems with clay soil. Gardens on new build sites very often have a sprinkling of top soil places directly on top of a thick layer of clay. So, making a nice garden virtually impossible without tons of organic material. Hence the addition of organic matter will be beneficial for the plants to take up iron. Clay soils are probably the richest soils once cultivated with added compost.

Very damp and wet soil

Of course this follows on from the last problem. Because clay soils are also wet and damp soils. Of course until well cultivated and free draining. Wet and damp soils are easy and often compacted. making it difficult once again for the plant to take up iron. So, if your garden is permanently compacted then there are few options available. Your plants can be foliar sprayed, or you can use a good soil supplement and even use the addition of chelated iron. These treatments can help plants take up the iron levels that they require.

Too much phosphorous in the soil

Strangely, too much phosphorous can prevent the intake of iron by the plant. Studying this then the main reason for this is the over use fertilizers containing phosphorous. So, the simple answer would be to use a fertilizer with lower amounts of phosphorous to balance the soils out and allow the plant to take up the iron that is required.

However it must be stressed that phosphorous is extremely import to plant growth and development. Of course for indoor growing then products are available to maintain the correct balance of nutrients in your plants. All are available online at Hydrostore West Yorkshire.

LED Lighting for a better heat control

August Heat Wave Expected

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August Heat Wave Expected

August Heat Wave Expected

So, I am sure that most people including growers and regular gardeners look forward to long sunny summer days. Of course its time to relax in the garden with your friends and family over a glass of beer or two. Possibly just doing some watering chores and making sure the greenhouse is well ventilated. However according to the weather forecast things are going to hot up in the August of 2021 here in the UK.

So, we have recently witnessed a good week of hot weather and we all know how uncomfortable it can be for us mere mortals. Spare a thought for the plants grown indoors. Good growing conditions require a temperature in the region of 28c! Hence to produce a good crop. However, things can become more unstable if the temperature reaches the 30C+ range outside. Our British homes are built to keep the cold out and the heat in with plenty of insulation. Unfortunately, during heat waves then the homes become stuffy and overheated. Thus making it difficult to sleep on sultry evenings.

Coincidently, plants feel the heat too and often stress out ending in a poor crop of fruit or flowers. The main problem in hot weather is of course the heat given off by the grow room lights. So, many people have their lights fitted with an adjustable ballast. Enabling the heat produced by the lights to be reduced. The ballast wattage can be turned down via its settings to reduce the amount of heat produced by the bulbs.

Importantly, the Lumatek 600w digital ballast provides a stable precise voltage to the lamp and is available online from your local Hydrostore.

LED to the rescue!

Of course the “rescue ship on the horizon! is going to be the LED lighting units. These units although expensive at the moment give off no heat. Therefore giving the grower more control over temperature. Smaller growers are already embracing this marvellous technology. Indeed I recently bought an LED lighting unit from a guy who claims to have had a double delivery. The unit was a bargain and was installed to give my citrus trees extended day light hours through Autumn to Spring. Thus enabling my citrus trees to carry on growing until they were put outside for the summer months.

The temperature was controlled by a greenhouse fan heater and all worked very well. As I have said these LED lighting units are more expensive to buy in the first place! However they pay for themselves because they actually use between 50 and 70% less electricity than the more traditional HPS bulb system.

Good Extraction System also helps

Of course most indoor growing set ups are fitted out with some sort of extraction system. These systems change the air in the growing room replacing warm air with cooler air. So, this combined with a control unit such as a GSE Controller will automate the process. So, as the temperature rises from outside conditions the system will start to work over time to keep the conditions more stable and the plants happier.

An extraction system reduces heat build up by drawing in cool air and then transferring warm air out of the growing area via ducting and a carbon filter. If you introduce a fan controller with temperature probe, your extraction system will automatically react to the temperature you set it too which also allows you to control you grow rooms temperature. Most plants hate to grow in a stuffy overheated environment and can cause growing restrictions leading to a poor quality crop of whatever you are growing.

So with the correct equipment in use then all should be well and the best results will be achieved.

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Hot weather-and your precious plants

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Hot weather

Hot weather

I am writing this post because I am not sure that the large population of immigrant growers understand that the UK can be a very hot place. So this July (2012) is proving a point. Hot weather can be a disaster to all kind of plants. Especially if you are using some kind of back up heating for some hot weather plants. People growing inside their homes will be having particular problems in trying to keep the temperature down so the plants can grow and produce a good crop of flowers or fruit.

My citrus trees are lucky because in summer I place them out onto a pebbled area of my garden along with the pomegranate and fig trees. Of course these Mediterranean plants including my olives just love the heat. Importantly though , I still have the problems with watering. Too much or too little will cause a leaf drop. This leaf drop can happen on many types of plants. When the temperature gets too hot out of control then the plants will shed their leaves.

Commercial glass house have to be strictly controlled to avoid any disasters. Crops will also develop at a faster rate due to the plants trying to produce their crops at a quicker rate. A good example of this would be strawberries. Of course a sudden rise in temperature and sun shine will start to produce fruit more abundantly. For certain crops this can be a disaster. However strawberries can be sold off cheaper or used in other products avoiding massive losses tot the growers.

Electric fans can help cool down your plants.

My greenhouse has been no different in recent hot weeks. Spraying down the floor with cold water does help. Also good ventilation is a must. Keeping as many windows and doors open will probably lower the temperature enough for you plants to enjoy the good hot weather without stressing them out. So, in other similar year then I have had success and failures. Tomato plants do great in hot weather but many other salad crops can suffer.

Plants in the ground can soon dry up. Of course a good regime of composting can give you a better chance at retaining moisture in the soil. Surprising my hydroponic lettuces have gone to seed pretty quickly in this hot spell. I am not sure why this is and will investigate once I am over my knee replacement operation.

People growing in their homes are probably the ones with most problems. UK houses are not built to resist this realy hot weather. In my particular case the house faces the south. Up to lunchtime the house remains coolish. However as the afternoon progresses the house becomes very hot. Plants growing in lofts and bedrooms will soon Sercombe to the heat build up. Air-con units are an expensive option but most have a pipe which must be hung out of a door or window. Thus making it difficult for many people.

Electric fans can offer some comfort for the plants. Here at Hydrostore in West Yorkshire we offer a selection of fans that can be used short term. So, good luck with your heat management, its just a part of growing in our great country.

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Yellowing Leaves

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Yellowing Leaves

Yellowing Leaves

So, here in the UK we are at last enjoying some warm sunny weather. Ironically, this is the time to keep your eyes open for the tell tale signs of your plants leaves “yellowing”. Change of climate and temperature is one of the things that can effect your plants and witnessing some of your plants leaves turning a shade of yellow. Importantly, the yellowing of leaves can be signs of many things. Common symptoms include such simple things as too much or too little nutrients, certain viruses, not enough light, the wrong ph for that particular plant, the incorrect watering regime and many more complicated systemic problems. Included in yellowing could also just mean that the plants life is coming to an end and this could be taken in to account.

Lets look at watering

So the technical term is “moisture stress”. Meaning the plants suffering from yellowing leaves are most likely to be the victims of over or under watering. This was always a problem for me when growing in a greenhouse or polytunnel. Ventilation, is a must but there is always times when they do get over heated. Overheating, causes the pots to dry out and therefore puts the plants under stress. Quick response can save the day! However if you are away for a couple for days then you are in trouble. Not only do weak plants attract more pests but they will also start the dreaded yellowing process.

Of course watering will help your plants pick back up but the damage is already done. Weak plants will be the end outcome. Usually with smaller fruit or smaller flowers. In the past I have tried a few things including drippers. However I think that the “Autopot” system and a good sized plastic water tank is the answer. Another yellowing of the leaves can be caused by over watering. This probably applies more on house plants where the plant carer tends to over do things. I have a friend who always lovingly kills every plant that she buys. Accordingly, she waters the plants far too much and eventually the plants turn yellow and eventually die.

Hydrostore-Yellowing Leaves-Where did the yellow begin to show

So, the keen plant grower could determine where the yellow started to effect their plants. Firstly, if the yellow appears at the top of your plant then the problem could be an “Iron Deficiency”. Secondly, if the yellow starts at the bottom leaves of the plant then it could be “Magnesium Deficiency”. Lastly, if the plant appears to be yellowing all over at the same time then it could be a “Nitrogen Deficiency”

So, a good idea is to check out the plants ph level. Of course this is more important with some plants more than others. However it would be well worth checking. Especially if you are have other problems such a slow growth. Many plants require ph that is in the neutral range, but some require more acid. Such plants include the “Azalea” family, requiring a very high ph acid soil. Importantly ph can be adjusted using certain hydroponic products such as “Vitalink Products” .

Another related thing to watch out for is for the grower of certain plants. Hence, if you are in the middle of flowering then it could be wise to make sure you have the correct magnesium levels in your water tank.

To emphasise, the ph levels are important factors when checking the levels. Both in hydroponics and in soil growing methods. The incorrect ph levels will cause slow growth with low yields of flowers or fruit.

Finally , I hope this post gives plant growers some insight into this sometimes common problem. So, yellowing leaves are just a small part that we gardeners and plant growers should be aware of. Also there are treatments at your local hydroponics store.

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Tap or Rain Water

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Tap or Rain Water

Tap or Rain Water

So in my mind, this is a no-brainer. However, collecting rainwater can be difficult for many people. The internet is awash with companies selling water collection tanks. Coincidentally, I’m looking at a good product from a Lincolnshire company, “Enduramaxx” for yet another storage tank. This will be my third plastic tank!

There are also various connectors for connecting your guttering downpipe to a water tank. However, I do understand the ease of being able to just turn on your tap and water the plants. Importantly, rain water and tap water are very different in content. So, in most places, tap water will not harm your precious plants. However, rainwater is good for your plants and better than tap water.

Of course, one of the major components of chlorophyll is nitrogen. This is the green colour in plants that soak up the sunlight and use its energy to produce sugars from carbon dioxide and water. So, most gardeners and growers know this as “photosynthesis.” This is the basis for sustaining most plants’ life processes. Plants’ leaves will turn yellow if they lack nitrogen, as I mentioned in my previous post. So, eventually, wither up and die!

6 good reasons to use rainwater in your garden

There are several good reasons to use rainwater in your garden:

  1. Rainwater is free and readily available, especially in areas with high rainfall.
  2. Rainwater is naturally soft, which means it is less likely to leave behind mineral deposits that can build up over time in soil, pots, and containers.
  3. Rainwater is generally high in oxygen, which can help plants grow healthier and more vigorously.
  4. Using rainwater helps to conserve drinking water, which is especially important in areas with drought conditions or water shortages.
  5. Rainwater is more environmentally friendly than using tap water, as it does not require energy to be pumped and treated.
  6. Using rainwater can save you money on your water bill, as you will be using a free, naturally occurring resource instead of relying on your municipal water supply.

Unfortunately, our water treatment plants take out as much nitrate as possible.

Because high levels of nitrate can be dangerous to young children. Plants cannot access nitrogen directly, relying on “nitrogen fixation.” where nitrogen in the air is converted to “ammonia” and related compounds found in the soil.

Importantly, nitrogen fixation is carried out by microorganisms found in the soil. Accordingly, the root hairs of a plant is invaded by nitrogen fixing bacteria’s. So, stimulating the formation of root nodules. Inside the nodules then bacteria converts free nitrogen into ammonia aiding the host plant for its development.

Astonishingly, the lightning that we see in a regular thunderstorm can generate nitrogen compounds. These mix with the water and oxygen in our atmosphere. The relating rain that falls contains high levels of ammonium and nitrates. So, thunderstorms are of great benefit for outdoor plants or for collecting the water for watering at another time. Of course, not only watering but also topping up the plant with nitrogen are important.

Rain water the best long time option

Rainwater is different depending on where we live. When I’m travelling, I can tell the difference between different bodies of water. In fact, locally, I can tell the difference between my local tap water and the water at my Halifax business. The latter is the most delicious! This will also apply to plants. Tap water differs in acidity, and once again, a ph. test is well worth carrying out on your relative soil. Generally, though, tap water will be on the alkaline side. Of course, this is on the high side for many plant species.

In recent years, we have had TV ads advising us to save our dirty water for the garden! Thus saving our clean tap water. This is known as grey water! So, usually containing detergents and soap. This mix has an even higher ph, elevating it up to a 9 or 10 score on the ph. scale.

On the other hand, as the rainwater falls to earth, the water droplets absorb carbon dioxide. Rain also collects certain minerals on its way down to earth. As a result, the water has a slightly acidic ph. The acid rain finally reaches our gardens’ soil and aids in the release of micronutrients. including zinc, iron, and copper. important for the plant’s development and, therefore, good growth.

In my research and opinion, it is the collected rainfall that comes first. benefitting the plants with absorbed nitrogen and minerals. However, there are times when I have to use tap water, but in general, I save rainwater in water butts.

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foliar feeding

Foliar Feeding or Not

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Foliar Feeding

Foliar Feeding

So, the truth is that I have only tried foliar feeding once, and that was earlier this year. Because I write this blog for a well-known hydroponic store here in Yorkshire (I now write out of my own interest in gardening, including hydroponics), I often get free samples to test. So I started to feed a couple of my lemon trees with a foliar feed. The plants are growing well, but so are the others. As a result, no true comparisons can be made with the pot-fed plants.

Many hydroponic gardeners are apparently now using foliar food techniques. Of course, the leaves can easily absorb the nutrients, just as soil feeding can. So, for growers who are not sure, I will try and make some observations in this post.

6 good reasons to foiler feed your plants

  1. Improved nutrient uptake: Foliar feeding allows plants to absorb nutrients more efficiently through their leaves, rather than just relying on the roots. This can be particularly useful for plants that are experiencing nutrient deficiencies or for plants that are growing in poor soil.
  2. Faster results: Foliar feeding can produce results more quickly than traditional soil-based feeding because the nutrients are absorbed directly by the plant. This can be especially beneficial if a plant is struggling and needs an immediate boost.
  3. Easier application: Foliar feeding is relatively easy to do and requires fewer materials than traditional soil-based feeding. All you need is a spray bottle or garden sprayer and the nutrient solution you want to apply.
  4. Can be used as a supplement: Foliar feeding can be used in addition to traditional soil-based feeding as a way to supplement a plant’s nutrient intake. This can be particularly useful for plants that are heavy feeders or that are growing in a soil that is nutrient-poor.
  5. Can be used to target specific nutrients: Foliar feeding allows you to target specific nutrients that a plant may be lacking. For example, if a plant is showing signs of a calcium deficiency, you can apply a calcium-rich foliar feed to address the problem.
  6. Can help to prevent nutrient imbalances: Foliar feeding can help to prevent nutrient imbalances in the soil by allowing plants to absorb the nutrients they need directly through their leaves. This can help to prevent problems such as nutrient lockout, which occurs when a plant is unable to access certain nutrients in the soil due to an excess of other nutrients.

Foliar Feeding, What is it!

Of course, plants use their leaves to take in moisture and absorb gases. enabling the leaves to take in and absorb a nutrient solution supplied by the grower or gardener. The nutrients take in the feed through the leaves’ pores. So, this makes the leaves an excellent place to enhance the growth of the plant and improve the size of the plant’s crop. Accordingly, plants are best sprayed with a nutrient spray in the early stages of growth. Another advantage is that the spray can also be used to aid the growth of your sick and ill plants. aiding recovery at a faster rate than, say, foiler feeding.

Of course, in my opinion, foliar feeding should be restricted to small growers. Subsequently, the growers of larger crop quantities, such as farmers, cannot have any chemicals on their plants. There may be a problem with pollution on the vegetation for human consumption before the crop is harvested.

Even in a small grower’s crop, the plants should be cleaned before being eaten. Especially when supplemented with foliar feed. Another option is that root feeding can take over from foliar feeding about a month before harvesting.

So, there is no doubt that feeding plants through the soil or growing medium is the most popular way. Regular composts will contain the correct nutrients to give your young plants a good start in life. After that, you can just add organic nutrients to the plant’s pot .

Either by mulching with well rotted animal manure or adding feed in the correct quantities via watering. Importantly, I use an hydronic system by using a large plastic water tank and adding the correct dosage of “CX Hydro Base A and B” to the water. Of course there are hundreds of brands and nutrient types that the grower can use.

My problem with feeding, whatever method I use, is that I am not good at a regular feeding regime. So, I am a bit hit and miss when it comes to regular feeding. My wife says that I should write things down! However, I always seem to get a decent crop with whatever I grow. So I must be doing something right, or am I just lucky?

Finally, I don’t believe there is a best way to feed! So, it’s up to the grower to try the different methods of feeding. The main thing is the correct dosage and the correct time to apply the feed.

Please do not forget that there is going to be a ban on using “Peat” as a mulch and other substitutes such a Coco products.